Climbers who court danger in the world's highest places risk far more than just their own skins. When tragedy strikes, what happens to the people who love them? Why would anyone choose to invest in a future with a high-altitude climber? What is life like in the shadow of the mountain? Such questions have long been taboo within the international world of mountaineering. Now Maria Coffey breaks this silence. She recounts climbers' stories of near-death experiences, and gives a voice to the families and loved ones of Chris Bonington, Ed Viesturs, Anatoli Boukreev and Alex Lowe, amongst many other famous names. Her riveting narrative weaves tales of adventure with first-person accounts of the people left behind, highlighting the conflicting beauty, passion and devastation of this alluring obsession.
Joe Simpson was well equiped to tackle the unclimbed West Face of the remote 21, 000 ft Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes with just his partner, Simon Yates. In June 1985 they achieved the summit before disaster struck. A few days later, Simon staggered into Base Camp, exhausted and frostbitten, to tell their non-climbing companion that Joe was dead. For three days he wrestled with guilt as they prepared to return home. Then a cry in the night took them out with torches, where they found Joe badly injured, crawling through the snowstorm in a delirium. Far fromcausing Joe's death, Simon had paradoxically saved his friend's life.
Joe Simpson with just his partner, Simon Yates tackled the unclimbed West Face of the remote 21, 000 ft SIULA GRANDE in the Peruvian Andes. In June 1995 they achieved the summit before disaster struck. A few days later, Simon staggered into Base Camp, exhausted and frost-bitten, to tell their non-climbing companion that Joe was dead. For three days he wrestled with guilt as they prepared to return home. Then a cry in the night took them out torches, where they found Joe, badly injured, crawling through the snowstorm in a delirium. Far from causing Joe's death, Simon had paradoxically saved his friend's life. What happened, and how they dealt with the psychological traumas that resulted when Simon was forced into the appalling decision to cut the rope, makes not only an epic of survival but a compelling testament of friendship.
Joe Simpson has experienced a life filled with adventure but marred by death. He has endured the painful attrition of climbing friends in accidents, calling into question the perilously exhilarating activity to which he has devoted his life. Probability is inexorably closing in. The tragic loss of a close friend forces a momentous decision upon him. It is time to turn his back on the mountains that he has loved. Never more alive than when most at risk, he has come to see a last climb on the hooded, mile-high North Face of the Eiger as the cathartic finale. In a narrative which takes the reader through extreme experiences, from an avalanche in Bolivia, ice-climbing in the Alps and Colorado and paragliding in Spain - before his final confrontation with the Eiger - Simpson reveals the inner truth of climbing, exploring both the power of the mind and the frailties of the body. The subject of his new book is the siren song of fear and his struggle to come to terms with it.
Nobody has written more eloquently about the human side of high altitude mountaineering then Maria Coffey. In this new edition of Fragile Edge, she describes her love affair with elite British mountaineer Joe Tasker, who perished with his partner Peter Boardman while attempting Everest's then unclimbed Northeast Ridge in 1982. Coffey relives her experiences, first within the hard-partying mountaineering scene and then during her long journey to understanding and acceptance of the tragedy that cost her the man she loved. She gives us an insider's view of the life of a world-class mountaineer and recounts her deeply moving pilgrimage with Boardman's widow across Tibet; a journey which retraced Tasker and Boardman's steps to their abandoned Advance Base Camp at 21, 000 feet on Everest.
The Long Routes: Mountaineering Rock Climbs in Snowdonia and the Lake District is a collection of some of the finest climbs on our high mountain cliffs. The routes described in this book have been chosen because they represent a full-blown mountaineering experience, where the length of the climb, the situation of the mountain, the sense of exposure and the element of adventure count for more than sheer technical challenge.Typically graded between 'difficult' and 'severe', the routes tend to follow the logical line up a cliff and onto a mountain's summit. They all represent long and committing trips, but fall within the capabilities of the average weekend climber or mountaineer, and provide the natural next step for the adventurous scrambler. The Long Routes outlines 45 classic climbs, including Pinnacle Rib on Tryfan, Dow Crag's Gordon and Craig's route, Great Gable's, Needle's Ridge, and Red Wall and Longland's Continuation on Lliwedd. It also looks at the best way of approaching the routes, examining the skills, techniques and equipment needed to undertake them. Each route description is enhanced by a photograph of the cliff, along with a crag diagram and topo, and the book contains a portfolio of fine photographs showing climbers in action on these routes.
When Chris Townsend reached the summit of Ben Hope in Sutherland, he walked his way into the record books. After 118 days in which he had covered more than 1, 700 miles and climber over 575, 000 feet, he had completed the first single continuous journey of all 277 Munros and 240 Tops in the Scottish Highlands.This is the story of that remarkable walk from the start on Ben More on the Isle of Mull through to the finish, the equivalent of climbing Mount Everest 18 times. For the author, the real enjoyment of the walk was not in counting up the summits or the miles but in spending week after week in the hills and living in the wilds. In THE MUNROS AND TOPS, Chris Townsend recalls the joys of observing the birds and animals, the trees and flowers, the changing shapes of the hills and the play of light on their slopes. He writes about the complexities of route-finding and the challenge of rugged terrain and of coping with often atrocious weather conditions. Illustrated with photographs taken during the walk, this is a stirring account of a unique achievement.
Following the success of EPIC: STORIES OF SURVIVAL FROM THE WORLD'S HIGHEST PEAKS, Adrenaline Books returns with HIGH: STORIES OF SURVIVAL FROM EVEREST AND K2. The first anthology devote exculusively to climbing on the world's two highest and best-known mountains, High spans the years 1933 through 1996. Editor Clint Willis has gathered the best-written and most exciting prose about mountaineering's ultimate challenges by the century's most accomplished writers - from Jon Krakauer to David Roberts to Chris Bonnington. When Matt Dickinson tells what it's like for an amateur to climb a swaying aluminium ladder high on Everest's North Col route, we understand his fear. When Jim Haverl waits high on K2's Abruzzi Ridge for sunrise over China to slow the bitter wind and warm his extremities, we know he is cold. When Maria Coffey mourns the loss of her beloved, who died on Everest's unclimbed North Ridge, we grieve with her. And when Doug Scott summits Everest via the horrendously difficult Southwest face and later writes of the moment, `All the world lay before us..., ' it lies before us as well.
The enthralling account, by the leader of the French expedition, of the first conquest of Annapurna - at that time, and at more than 8000 metres, the highest mountain ever climbed.
It is a story of breathtaking courage and determination against appalling odds. In records of mountaineering, in tales of human endeavour, there is nothing so unforgettable as the account of the descent by the triumphant but frost-bitten men, after the monsoon had broken, through the flooded valleys of Nepal.
As well as an introduction by Joe Simpson, this new edition includes 16 pages of photographs, which provide a remarkable visual record of this legendary expedition.
Epic is a collection of fifteen memorable accounts of legend-making expeditions to the world's most famous peaks, often in the world's worst possible conditions. Clint Willis has gathered the most exciting climbing literature of the modern age into one cliff-hanging volume.
CLIMB: STORIES OF SURVIVAL FROM ROCK, SNOW AND ICE offers the world's best writing about mountaineering in all its forms - from the rigours and risks of high altitude climbing on Everest to the challenges of scaling E1 Captain's 3, 000 vertical feet. Like it's predecessors in the Adrenaline series, CLIMB examines its subject though the eyes of gifted writers with great stories to tell. Many of the selections in CLIMB are about danger and its consequences In it you can read about > The three fatal mountaineering accidents David Roberts witnessed before he had turned 22 > A crevasse fall that has haunted Jim Wickwire for 18 years > The confusion and drama of an attempt to rescue climbers on the Grand Teton in a story by pete Sinclair These stories reveal climbing's allure as well as its terrible risks. Legendary Yosemite veteran John Long recalls the joys of climbing the world's hardest rock routes in the company of friends whose boldness scares even him. Scotsmen Hamish MacInnes, Tom Patey and Andrew Greig aal feature, too in stories from the Eiger's dreaded North face, Mustagh Tower in the Karakoram and the Alps.
Together with Chris Bonington and other distinguished British climbers, Stephen Venables was high on the unclimbed and sacred mountain of Panch Chuli when, at 1am on a dark Himalayan night, his abseil failed and he fell catastrophically, somersaulting from rock to rock and landing, seriously-wounded, at the end of a rope suspended above a 50-degree icefield. This is the story of his arduous and almost miraculous survival, and of the brilliant, committed teamwork which brought him to safety.
'A classic of its kind... His vivid, high powered but never overdramatised account of the ascent still reads splendidly' The Irish Times
In 1950, no mountain higher than 8, 000 meters had ever been climbed. Maurice Herzog and other members of the French Alpine Club resolved to try. This is the enthralling story of the first conquest of Annapurna and the harrowing descent. With breathtaking courage and grit manifest on every page, Annapurna is one of the greatest adventure stories ever told.
As well as an introduction by Joe Simpson, this new edition includes 16 pages of photographs, which provide a remarkable visual record of this legendary expedition.
The enthralling account, by the leader of the French expedition, of the first conquest of Annapurna - at that time, and at more than 8000 metres, the highest mountain ever climbed.
It is a story of breathtaking courage and determination against appalling odds. In records of mountaineering, in tales of human endeavour, there is nothing so unforgettable as the account of the descent by the triumphant but frost-bitten men, after the monsoon had broken, through the flooded valleys of Nepal.
As well as an introduction by Joe Simpson, this new edition includes 16 pages of photographs, which provide a remarkable visual record of this legendary expedition.
In 1992, an Indian climber was left to die on the South Col of Mount Everest by other climbers who watched his feebly waving hand from their tent. He was filmed in his last hours for a television feature. Why did onlookers not hold the dying man's hand and comfort him? The answer appals Joe Simpson, who was himself left for dead in a cervasse in Peru in 1985 - 'because it might compromise their summit bid'. It is an ethical question that Joe is forced to confront as he climbs a hazardous route on Pumori. Now that Everest has become the playground of the rich, where commercial operators offer guided tours to the top, camping admist the detritus and unburied corpses of previous less fortunate climbers, Joe wonders if the noble instincts that once characterised mountaineering have been irrevocably displaced - as in politics, in business, in the media and in other facets of society.
Graham Forbes loved to play guitar, whether it was with local rock groups in village halls or touring the big stages of the world with the Incredible String Band. But, like so many others, he enjoyed the lifestyle too much: the gigs, groupies and booze. At the age of 27, he found himself more than a little bewildered back in Glasgow, ears ringing, completely unemployable, with an empty bottle of tequila in one hand and a huge overdraft in the other. The party was over.Just when it looked like there could be only one outcome, Graham noticed there were hills nearby and decided to go for a walk. It began a journey that transformed him totally. It took him from poverty to building one of the most successful small companies in Scotland and bluffing his way onto the Board of Directors of a national public limited company, hoping that the next meeting wouldn't be in a hotel he had wrecked. Rock and Roll Mountains weaves in and out of wild sex, drugs and rock tours to glowing sunsets on some of the most beautiful summits in the world There has never been another book like this about mountains and their power to heal, and how lessons learned clinging to frozen ice faces can be used in running a company and to win a battle against alcoholism. It is a book about extreme sport, fear and survival - but without the gung-ho heroics of mountaineering writers. It exposes the mountain mafia, the bearded fleece dwellers who are determined to keep the Scottish Highlands to themselves. It tells tales of crazy climbers, drunken dockers and mad musicians and shows how alike they are. This book is for anyone who loves the great music of the '70s - you can almost hear rock music explode from the pages - and for anyone, like Graham, who has looked in the mirror and faced failure. More importantly, it is very, very funny.
The joys, the risks and the motivations of mountain climbing are at the heart of Malcolm Slesser's remarkable book. This autobiographical account spans 64 years of mountain exploration in every continent, during which both attituded and technology have undergone vast changes. It is a story of the joy of discovery shared with friends in high places.Mountain climbing, like life itself, is not without risk. Unlike most sports, climbing is the solution to a very personal equation. The decision to go on or return lies with the climber and is influenced by his or her awareness of the risk. In that awareness lies safety and the ability to navigate the cliffs above and the chasms at your feet. Good judgement comes from experience. And experience comes from poor judgement. Most survive to a reasonable age; some brilliant climbers like Herman Buhl and Dougal Haston have perished through a momentary lapse of judgement. Too many die young, failing to apprecfiate that safety lies in the awareness of danger. The motivation for mountain climbing is not risk. It is the joy of exploration of the vertical, whether it be a virgin summit, lonely precipice or simply a new line or familiar rock face.