• Power from 4.5V-14V DC voltage• Up to 93% efficient (88-93% typical)•20m A quiescent current (or put into shutdown for 1u A quiescent)• Up to 29.5d B max gain• Use DC or AC coupled line-level input, up to 3 Vpp• Filter less Spread-Spectrum Modulation Lowers• Radiated RF Emissions from Speaker Cables•20W Stereo Output (4O, VDD = 12V, THD+N = 10%)• Low 0.04% THD+N• Integrated Click-&-Pop Suppression• Short-Circuit & Thermal-Overload Protection•
Includes: polarity-protection, jacks & terminal blocks, i 2c level shifting, & a spot to solder in a volume pot• Check out the detailed tutorial please click here Pump up the volume with this 20W stereo amplifier! This slim little board has a class D amplifier onboard that can drive 2 channels of 4-8 ohm impedance speakers at 20W each. Power it with 5-12VDC using the onboard DC power jack & plug stereo line level into the 3.5mm stereo headphone jack & jam out with ease. Since it's class D, its completely cool-running, no heat sinks are required & it's extremely efficient
- up to 93% efficiency makes it great for portable or battery powered rigs. We like the MAX9744 amplifier at the heart of this board because its very easy to use, but it also has both analogue & digital volume control capability. Use a single 1KO pot (we include one) to adjust volume analogue-style. Or hook it up to your favourite microcontroller & send I2C commands to set 64-steps of volume amplification.

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• Two ground pins, one switched power pin, & one pin that is always on• Compatible with the JST PH 2-pin connectors This switched JST connector is the best way to quickly prototype with our Li Poly batteries. Adafruit paired a genuine JST connector with a slide switch that can do up to 600m A. Both are soldered onto a breadboard-friendly breakout. ...

• The circuitry on-board handles the background key-presses & LED lighting for the 4x 4 tile• Each tile has an I2C-controlled LED sequencer & keypad reader already on it• The chip controls all 16 LEDs individually• The connections are 'diode multiplexed'• Each LED is multiplexed with a constant-current driver, so you can mix & match any colors you like.• We would recommend our super bright LEDs Blue, Yellow, Red & White• Please click here to see the detailed tutorial guide• Please click here to see the Trellis Library Trellis is an open source backlight keypad driver system. It is easy to use, works with any 3mm LEDs & eight tiles can be tiled together on a shared I2C bus. This PCB is specially made to match the Adafruit 4x 4 elastomer keypad. Each Trellis PCB has 4x 4 pads & 4x 4 matching spots for 3mm LEDs. The circuitry on-board handles the background key-presses & LED lighting for the 4x 4 tile. However, it does not have any microcontroller or other 'brains'
- an Arduino (or similar microcontroller) is required to control the Trellis to read the key press data & let it know when to light up LEDs as desired. Each tile has an I2C-controlled LED sequencer & keypad reader already on it. The chip can control all 16 LEDs individually, turning them on or off. It cannot do greyscale or dimming. The same chip also reads any key presses made with the rubber keypad. The connections are 'diode multiplexed' so you do not have to worry about "ghosting" when pressing multiple keys, each key is uniquely addressed. The tiles have 3 address jumpers. You can tile up to 8 PCBs together (for a total of 4x 32 or 16x 8=128 buttons/leds) on a single I2C bus, as long as each one has a unique address. All the tiles connect by the edges with solder, & share the same power, ground, interrupt, & i 2c clock/data pins. So, you can easily set up to 128 LEDs & read up to 128 buttons using only 2 I2C wires! The tiles can be arranged in any configuration they want as long as each tile is connected to another with the 5 edge-fingers. Each LED is multiplexed with a constant-current driver, so you can mix & match any colours you like. You don't need it to be all blue, all red, etc. Mix it up!
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•ATtiny 85 on-board, 8K of flash, 512 byte of SRAM, 512 bytes of EEPROM•USB boot-loader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE• Mini-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram• We really worked hard on the boot-loader process to make it rugged & foolproof, this board wont up & die on you in the middle of a project!•~5.25K bytes available for use (2.75K taken for the boot-loader)• On-board 3.3V or 5V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout• Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection• Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over• On-board green power LED & red pin 1 LED• Reset button for entering the boot-loader or restarting the program• No need to unplug/replug the board every time you want to reset or update!•5 GPIO
- 2 shared with the USB (Universal Serial Bus) interface• The 3 independent IO pins have 1 analogue input & 2 PWM output as well• The 2 shared IO pins have 2 more analogue inputs & one more PWM output• Hardware I2C / SPI capability for breakout & sensor interfacing• Mounting holes! Yeah!• Really really small!• Please Click here for the detailed tutorial guide Trinket may be small, but do not be fooled by its size! It's a tiny microcontroller board, built around the Atmel ATtiny 85, a little chip with a lot of power. We wanted to design a microcontroller board that was small enough to fit into any project, & low cost enough to use without hesitation. Perfect for when you don't want to give up your expensive dev-board & you aren't willing to take apart the project you worked so hard to design. It's our lowest-cost arduino-IDE programmable board! The Attiny 85 is a fun processor because despite being so small, it has 8K of flash, & 5 I/O pins, including analogue inputs & PWM 'analogue' outputs. We designed a USB (Universal Serial Bus) boot loader so you can plug it into any computer & reprogram it over a USB (Universal Serial Bus) port just like an Arduino. In fact we even made some simple modifications to the Arduino IDE so that it works like a mini-Arduino board. You can't stack a big shield on it but for many small & simple projects the Trinket will be your go-to platform. This is the 3V Trinket. There are two versions of the Trinket. One is 3V & one is 5V. Both work the same, but have different operating logic voltages. Use the 3V one to interface with sensors & devices that need 3V logic, or when you want to power it off of a Li Po battery. The 3V version should only run at 8 MHz. Use the 5V one for sensors & components that can use or require 5V logic. The 5V version can run at 8 MHz or at 16 M Hz by setting the software-set clock frequency. Even though you can program Trinket using the Arduino IDE, it's not a fully 100% Arduino-compatible. There are some things you trade off for such a small & low cost microcontroller!• Trinket does not have a Serial port connection for debugging so the serial port monitor will not be able to send/receive data• Some computers' USB (Universal Serial Bus) v 3 ports don't recognize the Trinket's boot loader. Simply use a USB (Universal Serial Bus) v 2 port or a USB (Universal Serial Bus) hub in between• Trinket is not supported on Linux operating system at this time
- try Mac OS or Windows!


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•ATtiny 85 on-board, 8K of flash, 512 byte of SRAM, 512 bytes of EEPROM•USB boot-loader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE• Mini-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram• We really worked hard on the boot-loader process to make it rugged & foolproof, this board wont up & die on you in the middle of a project!•~5.25K bytes available for use (2.75K taken for the boot-loader)• On-board 3.3V or 5V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout• Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection• Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over• On-board green power LED & red pin 1 LED• Reset button for entering the boot-loader or restarting the program• No need to unplug/replug the board every time you want to reset or update!•5 GPIO
- 2 shared with the USB (Universal Serial Bus) interface• The 3 independent IO pins have 1 analogue input & 2 PWM output as well• The 2 shared IO pins have 2 more analogue inputs & one more PWM output• Hardware I2C / SPI capability for breakout & sensor interfacing• Mounting holes! Yeah!• Really really small!• Please Click here for the detailed tutorial guide Trinket may be small, but do not be fooled by its size! It's a tiny microcontroller board, built around the Atmel ATtiny 85, a little chip with a lot of power. We wanted to design a microcontroller board that was small enough to fit into any project, & low cost enough to use without hesitation. Perfect for when you don't want to give up your expensive dev-board & you aren't willing to take apart the project you worked so hard to design. It's our lowest-cost arduino-IDE programmable board! The Attiny 85 is a fun processor because despite being so small, it has 8K of flash, & 5 I/O pins, including analogue inputs & PWM 'analogue' outputs. We designed a USB (Universal Serial Bus) boot loader so you can plug it into any computer & reprogram it over a USB (Universal Serial Bus) port just like an Arduino. In fact we even made some simple modifications to the Arduino IDE so that it works like a mini-Arduino board. You can't stack a big shield on it but for many small & simple projects the Trinket will be your go-to platform. This is the 5V Trinket. There are two versions of the Trinket. One is 3V & one is 5V. Both work the same, but have different operating logic voltages. Use the 3V one to interface with sensors & devices that need 3V logic, or when you want to power it off of a Li Po battery. The 3V version should only run at 8 MHz. Use the 5V one for sensors & components that can use or require 5V logic. The 5V version can run at 8 MHz or at 16 M Hz by setting the software-set clock frequency. Even though you can program Trinket using the Arduino IDE, it's not a fully 100% Arduino-compatible. There are some things you trade off for such a small & low cost microcontroller!• Trinket does not have a Serial port connection for debugging so the serial port monitor will not be able to send/receive data• Some computers' USB (Universal Serial Bus) v 3 ports don't recognize the Trinket's boot loader. Simply use a USB (Universal Serial Bus) v 2 port or a USB (Universal Serial Bus) hub in between• Trinket is not supported on Linux operating system at this time
- try Mac OS or Windows!


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• Two sensors
- one 3-axis accelerometer, one magnetometer• Uses I2C to communicate•3.3V max chip, but added circuitry makes
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• Develop interesting projects for the Arduino using GPS technology• Develop coding based applications for advanced projects• Highly sensitive receiver & wide channel give reliable GPS reception•-165 d Bm sensitivity, 10 Hz updates, 66 channels•5V friendly design & only 20m A current draw• Breadboard friendly + two mounting holes•RTC battery-compatible• Built-in datalogging•PPS output on fix•>25 Km altitude• Internal patch antenna + u.FL connector for external active antenna• Fix status LEDThe breakout is built around the MTK3339 chipset, a no-nonsense, high-quality GPS module that can track up to 22 satellites on 66 channels, has an excellent high-sensitivity receiver (-165 d B tracking!), & a built in antenna. It can do up to 10 location updates a second for high speed, high sensitivity logging or tracking. Power usage is incredibly low, only 20 m A during navigation. Best of all, we added all the extra goodies you could ever want: a ultra-low dropout 3.3V regulator so you can power it with 3.3-5VDC in, 5V level safe inputs, ENABLE pin so you can turn off the module using any microcontroller pin or switch, a footprint for optional CR1220 coin cell to keep the RTC running & allow warm starts & a tiny bright red LED. The LED blinks at about 1 Hz while it's searching for satellites & blinks once every 15 seconds when a fix is found to conserve power. If you want to have an LED on all the time, we also provide the FIX signal out on a pin so you can put an external LED on. Two features that really stand out about version 3 MTK3339-based module is the external antenna functionality & the the built in data-logging capability. The module has a standard ceramic patch antenna that gives it -165 d B sensitivity, but when you want to have a bigger antenna, you can snap on any 3V active GPS antenna via the u FL connector. The module will automatically detect the active antenna & switch over! Most GPS antennas use SMA connectors so you may want to pick up one of our u FL to SMA adapters. The other cool feature of the new MTK3339-based module (which we have tested with great success) is the built in datalogging ability. Since there is a microcontroller inside the module, with some empty FLASH memory, the newest firmware now allows sending commands to do internal logging to that FLASH. The only thing is that you do need to have a microcontroller send the " Start Logging" comm&. However, after that message is sent, the microcontroller can go to sleep & does not need to wake up to talk to the GPS anymore to reduce power consumption. The time, date, longitude, latitude, & height is logged every 15 seconds & only when there is a fix. The internal FLASH can store about 16 hours of data, it will automatically append data so you don't have to worry about accidentally losing data if power is lost. It is not possible to change what is logged & how often, as its hardcoded into the module but we found that this arrangement covers many of the most common GPS datalogging requirements. We've tested this version of the Ultimate GPS in a high-altitude balloon, & it kept fix up to 27km! A full tutorial is also available, which has tons of information about the module, how to use the data logger & more ...

•USB Micro-B connector with all 5 pins broken out• Great for pairing with a microcontroller• Simple but effective• Add USB (Universal Serial Bus) 5V power to a project Simple but effective
- this breakout board has a USB (Universal Serial Bus) Micro-B connector, with all 5 pins broken out. Great for pairing with a microcontroller with USB (Universal Serial Bus) support, or adding USB (Universal Serial Bus) 5V power to a project. Built with a micro-AB connector with through-hole shielding pads for an excellent strong connection
- it won't rip off by accident! Comes with one fully assembled & tested micro B breakout PCB & a small stick of 0.1" header so you can solder it on & plug into a breadboard.

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• Reprogrammable micro-controller, analogue output, TTL serial output for debugging / data logging & of course, open source.• Data is passed through transparently from end to end, so you can use it with any USB (Universal Serial Bus) device at any speed• The power line has a 0.1 ohm current sense resistor an an INA169 high-side current sensor that is tracked by a little ATtiny 85 chip• The microcontroller is programmed to read the current draw as well as the bus voltage & light up the strip of LEDs on the side• The blue LEDs will light up, one for each Watt of power draw (which is ~200m A at 5V nominal), with a couple levels of PWM dimming for increasing current• You can measure up to 1A of current draw
- most USB (Universal Serial Bus) ports are rated for 500m A• It's safe to use this with something that draws up to 2 A of current, it'll just 'max out' the LEDs• The green LED is helpful to tell if you have too much droop on your power line• It stays lit as long as the voltage is higher than 4.5V, most devices won't charge effectively once it goes below that so if the green LED goes out, you know you should check your port, shorten the USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable, or reduce the current draw• It also prints out the voltage, current & wattage data as readable text on the TX pin at 9600 baud. Connect an FTDI friend, USB (Universal Serial Bus) console cable, microcontroller, XBee, whatever you want that can read 9600 baud TTL serial data for data logging, plotting or display• Please Click here to find the source code & schematic This little USB (Universal Serial Bus) port go-between is like a speed gauge for your USB (Universal Serial Bus) devices. Instead of hauling out a multimeter & splicing cables, plug this in between for a quick reading on how much current is being drawn from the port. Great for seeing the charge rate of your phone or tablet, checking your battery chargers, or other USB (Universal Serial Bus) powered projects. Comes as a mini kit with an assembled & tested PCB plus a separate USB (Universal Serial Bus) jack & plug as shown above. Before use, solder the jack & plug. It'll only take you a few minutes & can be done with any soldering iron. Or, advanced users can splice it between a USB (Universal Serial Bus) extension cable. Please note: this is a handy gadget but it isn't a multimeter! We do some basic calibration during test, but the serial output readings are not precise & should be used as a basic guide rather than lab-grade data plots. Assume a variance of at least 0.1V & 50m A due to noise, thermal changes, etc.
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• Short range
- best results in the 10-150mm range•5V compliant so you can use it with 3.3V or 5V logic• Works best at 5V as the
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