• Built in clock which can multiplex the display• Constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour•1/16 step display dimming• All via a simple I2C interface• The backpack comes with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to eight of these bar-graphs on a single I2C bus• You can also mix-&-match the bar-graph breakout with our other types of I2C LED backpacks• And to view the library please click here to help you get started!• To see Adafruits tutorial showing how to solder, wire & control the display please click here What's better than a single LED? Lots of LEDs! A fun way to make a small linear display is to use two 12-bar Bi-colour bar-graphs. However, this LED bargraph is 'multiplexed'
- so to control all the 48 LEDs you need a lot of pins. There are driver chips like the MAX7219 that can help control a bar-graph/matrix for you but there's a lot of wiring to set up & they take up a ton of space. Much like our 8x 8 & 7-segment backpacks, this backpack pairs perfectly with our bar-graphs & manages all the LED control & multiplexing. The backpack uses a driver chip that does all the heavy lifting for you: It has a built in clock so it can multiplex the display. It uses constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour, 1/16 step display dimming, all via a simple I2C interface. The backpack comes with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to eight of these bar-graphs on a single I2C bus. You can also mix-&-match the bar-graph breakout with our other types of I2C LED backpacks.
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• Built in clock which can multiplex the display• Constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour•1/16 step display dimming• All via a simple I2C interface• The backpacks come with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to four mini 8x 8's or eight 7-segments/bicolour• And to view the library please click here to help you get started!• To see Adafruits tutorial showing how to solder, wire & control the display please click here What's better than a single LED? Lots of LEDs! A fun way to make a small colourful display is to use a 1.2" Bi-color 8x 8 LED Matrix. Matrices like these are 'multiplexed'
- so to control all the 128 LEDs you need 24 pins. That's a lot of pins, & there are driver chips like the MAX7219 that can help control a matrix for you but there's a lot of wiring to set up & they take up a ton of space. We have them in three flavours
- a mini 8x 8, 1.2" Bi-color 8x 8 & a 4-digit 0.56" 7-segment. The matrices use a driver chip that does all the heavy lifting for you: They have a built in clock so they multiplex the display. They use constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour, 1/16 step display dimming, all via a simple I2C interface. The backpacks come with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to four mini 8x 8's or eight 7-segments/bicolour (or a combination, such as four mini 8x 8's & two 7-segments & two bicolour, etc) on a single I2C bus.

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•5V compliant
- a 3.3V regulator & a i 2c level shifter circuit is included so you can use this sensor safely with 5V logic & power•
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• The pixels are chainable
- so you only need 1 pin/wire to control as many LEDs as you like• Full 24-bit colour ability with PWM
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• Measures temperature via the subjects emitted IR waves• An embedded thermopile sensor generates a (small) voltage dependant on IR levels, which can be used to measure temperature• Measurement taken over an area so can be used to work out average temperatures• Works with 3 to 5V logic
- no logic level shifting needed•
Includes: a small piece of 0.1"" breakaway header so you can easily solder to & use this sensor on a breadboard•i 2c compatible interface•20mm long by 20mm wide Unlike all the other temperature sensors we have, this breakout has a really cool IR sensor from TI that can measure the temperature of an object without touching it! Simply point the sensor towards what you want to measure & it will detect the temperature by absorbing IR waves emitted. The embedded thermopile sensor generates a very very small voltage depending on how much IR there is, & using some math, that micro voltage can be used to calculate the temperature. It also takes the measurement over an area so it can be handy for determining the average temperature of something. This sensor comes as a ultra-small 0.5mm pitch BGA, too hard to solder by h&. So we stuck it on an easy-to-work-with breakout board. The sensor works with 3 to 5V logic so it requires no logic level shifting. There are two address pins & using a funky method of connecting the pins you can have up to 8 TMP006's connected to one i 2c bus (see the datasheet table 1 for the connections). We also include a small piece of 0.1" breakaway header so you can easily solder to & use this sensor on a breadboard. Two mounting holes make it easy to attach to an enclosure. Of course, we wouldn't just hand you a datasheet & wish you luck, theres an easy-to-use Arduino library with an example that will have you up & running in 5 minutes. The code can also be ported to any microcontroller with i 2c support, the hardest math part has already been taken care of. The nice folks at Adafruit have even knocked up an Arduino library click here. Wanting more information clock here to see the datasheet. And the easy to use user guide can be found here.

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• The default 'max gain' is 60d B, but can be set to 40d B or 50d B by jumpering the Gain pin to VCC or ground• You can change the Attack/ Release ratio, from the default 1:4000 to 1:2000 or 1:500• The output from the amp is about 2 Vpp max on a 1.25V DC bias, so it can be easily used with any Analog/ Digital converter that is up to 3.3V input• If you want to pipe it into a Line Input, just use a 1u F blocking capacitor in series This fancy microphone amplifier module is a step above the rest, with built in automatic gain control. The AGC in the amplifier means that nearby 'loud' sounds will be quieted so they don't overwhelm & 'clip' the amplifier, & even quiet, far-away sounds will be amplified. This amplifier is great for when you want to record or detect audio in a setting where levels change & you don't want to have to tweak the amplifier gain all the time. The chip at the heart of this amp is the MAX9814 If you just need to keep track of audio levels, see this sound-level meter tutorial for Arduino found here Each order comes with one assembled & tested board, with an electret mic pre-soldered on, & a small piece of header. Adafruits tutorial will get you started with using & testing the microphone amplifier & you can check out their general-purpose microphone amplifier tutorial for other project ideas & code ...

• Fully tested & assembled breakout board• All headers included (to solder yourself)• Great low-noise performance•20-20 K Hz electret microphone• Maxim MX4466 op-amp for amplification• Small trimmer pot on the back to adjust gain (25x to 125x) Add an ear to your project with this well-designed electret microphone amplifier. This fully assembled & tested board comes with a 20-20 K Hz electret microphone soldered on. For the amplification, we use the Maxim MAX4466, an op-amp specifically designed for this delicate task! The amplifier has excellent power supply noise rejection, so this amplifier sounds really good & isn't nearly as noisy or scratchy as other mic amp breakouts we've tried! This breakout is best used for projects such as voice changers, audio recording/sampling, & audio-reactive projects that use FFT. On the back, we include a small trimmer pot to adjust the gain. You can set the gain from 25x to 125x. That's down to be about 200m Vpp (for normal speaking volume about 6" away) which is good for attaching to something that expects 'line level' input without clipping, or up to about 1 Vpp, ideal for reading from a microcontroller ADC. The output is rail-to-rail so if the sounds gets loud, the output can go up to 5 Vpp! Using it is simple: connect GND to ground, VCC to 2.4-5VDC. For the best performance, use the "quietest" supply available (on an Arduino, this would be the 3.3V supply). The audio waveform will come out of the OUT pin. The output will have a DC bias of VCC/2 so when its perfectly quiet, the voltage will be a steady VCC/2 volts (it is DC coupled). Connect the OUT pin directly to the microcontroller ADC pin. ...

• Firmware that uses unique dithering & colour correction algorithms to raise the bar for quality while getting out of the way of your creativity• Open source hardware for connecting cheap & popular WS2811 based LEDs to a laptop, desktop, or Raspberry Pi over USB• Fadecandy Server Software, which communicates with one Fadecandy board or dozens• It runs on Windows, Linux, & Mac OS, & on embedded platforms like Raspberry Pi• The Open Pixel Control protocol, a simple way of getting pixel data from your creative tools into the Fadecandy server• Libraries & examples for popular languages. We have Python & Processing already, with Javascript & Max coming soon•LEDs! Fadecandy works with Adafruit's popular WS2811/WS2812 LEDs. Each controller board supports up to 512 LEDs, arranged as 8 strips of 64 each• To view the Github Repository please click here• Join in the community & check out the discussion group• Also take a look at some of the amazing projects made with the Fadecandy Fadecandy, a Neo Pixel driver with built in dithering, that can be controlled over USB (Universal Serial Bus). Fadecandy is not just hardware! It is a kit of both hardware & software parts that make LED art projects easier to build & better-looking so sculptors & makers & multimedia artists can concentrate on beautiful things instead of reinventing the wheel. It's an easy way to get started & an advanced tool for professionals. It's a collection of simple parts that work well together. Fadecandy is designed to enable art that is subtle, interactive, & playful
- exploring the interplay between light, form, & shadow. If you’re tired of seeing project after project with frenetic blinky rainbow fades, you’ll appreciate how easy it is to create expressive lighting! It's also battle tested! The firmware was originally developed to run the Ardent Mobile Cloud Platform, a Burning Man project which used 2500 LEDs to project ever-changing rolling cloud patterns onto the interior of a translucent plastic sculpture. It used five Fadecandy boards, a single Raspberry Pi, & the effects were written in a mixture of C & Python. The lighting on this project blew people away, & it made me realize just how much potential there is for creative lighting, but it takes significant technical drudgery to get beyond frenetic-rainbow-fade into territory where the lighting can really add to an art piece instead of distracting from it.
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• Classic 3-axis accelerometer can tell which direction is down by measuring gravity or how fast the board is accelerating in 3D space• Magnetometer can sense where the strongest magnetic force is coming from (generally magnetic north)•I2C interface• Attaching it to the FLORA is simple: line up the sensor so its adjacent to the SDA/SCL pins & sew conductive thread from the 3V, SDA, SCL & GND pins. They line up perfectly so you will not have any crossed lines. Add motion & direction sensing to your wearable FLORA project with this high precision 3-axis Accelerometer+ Compass sensor. Inside are two sensors, one is a classic 3-axis accelerometer, which can tell you which direction is down towards the Earth (by measuring gravity) or how fast the board is accelerating in 3D space. The other is a magnetometer that can sense where the strongest magnetic force is coming from, generally used to detect magnetic north. By combining this data you can then orient yourself. We based this sensor on the latest version of this popular sensor, the LSM303DLHC. The sensor has a digital (I2C) interface. Attaching it to the FLORA is simple: line up the sensor so its adjacent to the SDA/SCL pins & sew conductive thread from the 3V, SDA, SCL & GND pins. They line up perfectly so you will not have any crossed lines. You can only connect one of these sensors to your FLORA, but you can connect other I2C sensors/outputs by using the set of SCL/SDA pins on the opposite side. Get started with the FLORA Accelerometer click here for the guide! It uses the same Arduino library as our conventional form LSM303 breakout. The example & library code will work 'out of the box' with FLORA. Simply download our library & connect the 3V/SCL/SDA/GND pins, install the library properly & upload our test program to read out accelerometer & magnetic field data. ...

•RGB & clear light sensing elements• Onboard IR filter localised to the colour sensing photodiodes minimizes the IR spectral component of the incoming light & allows colour measurements to be made accurately• The filter means you'll get much truer colour than most sensors, since humans don't see IR•3, 800, 000:1 dynamic range with adjustable integration time & gain so it is suited for use behind darkened glass or fabric• Neutral 4150°K temperature LED with MOSFET driver provided to illuminate your subject & help you get consistent colour (can be turned off afterwards to save power) Your electronics can now see in dazzling color with this lovely color light sensor. We found the best color sensor on the market, the TCS34725, which has RGB & Clear light sensing elements. An IR blocking filter, integrated on-chip & localized to the color sensing photodiodes, minimizes the IR spectral component of the incoming light & allows color measurements to be made accurately. The filter means you'll get much truer color than most sensors, since humans don't see IR. The sensor also has an incredible 3, 800, 000:1 dynamic range with adjustable integration time & gain so it is suited for use behind darkened glass or fabric. To make sure you get consistent color, we specified a nice neutral 4150°K temperature LED with a MOSFET driver onboard to illuminate what you're trying to sense. The LED can be easily turned on during sensing & turned off afterwards to save power. Connect to a Flora via I2C & our example code will quickly get you going with 4 channel readings. A detailed tutorial is in the works, till then, check out the Arduino library & follow the tutorial to install. Sew up the sensor by connecting 3V to 3V Flora output, Ground to common ground, SCL to I2C Clock & SDA to I2C Data on your Flora. All the pins line up & you can chain another sensor such as a lux sensor or accelerometer. Restart the IDE & select the example Flora. All the pins line up & you can chain another sensor such as a lux sensor or accelerometer. Restart the IDE & select the example Flora sketch & start putting all your favorite fruit next to the sensor element! ...