• Pin-out clearly labelled on the board• Comes with a quality mini PCB, a 2x 3 pin header & a small stick of 0.1" header• Plugs into any breadboard for neat wiring• Requires some light soldering to attach the headers A handy little breakout board for AVR from Adafruit! ...

•CAP188 has support for both I2C & SPI, so it easy to use with any microcontroller• If using I2C, you can select one of 5 addresses, for a total of 40 capacitive touch pads on one I2C 2-wire bus• Using this chip is a lot easier than doing the capacitive sensing with analog inputs: it handles all the filtering for you & can be configured for more/less sensitivity Add lots of touch sensors to your next microcontroller project with this easy-to-use 8-channel capacitive touch sensor breakout board, starring the CAP1188. This chip can handle up to 8 individual touch pads, & has a very nice feature that makes it stand out for us: it will light up the 8 onboard LEDs when the matching touch sensor fires to help you debug your sensor setup.CAP188 has support for both I2C & SPI, so it easy to use with any microcontroller. If using I2C, you can select one of 5 addresses, for a total of 40 capacitive touch pads on one I2C 2-wire bus. Using this chip is a lot easier than doing the capacitive sensing with analogue inputs: it handles all the filtering for you & can be configured for more/less sensitivity. Comes with a fully assembled board, & a stick of 0.1"" header so you can plug it into a breadboard. For contacts, we suggest using copper foil, then solder a wire that connects from the foil pad to the breakout. Getting started is a breeze with the Adafruit Arduino library & tutorial. You'll be up & running in a few minutes, & if you are using another microcontroller, its easy to port the code. The CAP1188 datasheet can be found here ...

• Easy to use analog output• Easily convert the voltage to temperature• This is a very simple sensor to use• Temp range with 5V power: -250°C to +750°C output (0 to 5VDC)• Temp range with 3.3V power: -250°C to +410°C output (0 to 3.3VDC) Thermocouples are very sensitive, requiring a good amplifier with a cold-compensation reference. This is a very simple sensor to use, & if your microcontroller has analog input capability, you'll be ready to go really fast! The AD8495 K-type thermocouple amplifier from Analogue Devices is so easy to use, the whole thing is documented on the back of the tiny PCB. Power the board with 3-18VDC & measure the output voltage on the OUT pin. You can easily convert the voltage to temperature with the following equation: Temperature = (Vout
- 1.25) / 0.005 V. So for example, if the voltage is 1.5VDC, the temperature is (1.5
- 1.25) / 0.005 = 60°C Each order comes with a 2 pin terminal block (for connecting to the thermocouple), a fully assembled PCB with the AD8495 + TLVH125 precision voltage reference, pin header (to plug into any breadboard or perfboard) & a 1m K type thermocouple with glass over-braiding. Not for use with any other kind of thermocouple, K type only!

...

• Built in clock which can multiplex the display• Constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour•1/16 step display dimming• All via a simple I2C interface• The backpack comes with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to eight of these bar-graphs on a single I2C bus• You can also mix-&-match the bar-graph breakout with our other types of I2C LED backpacks• And to view the library please click here to help you get started!• To see Adafruits tutorial showing how to solder, wire & control the display please click here What's better than a single LED? Lots of LEDs! A fun way to make a small linear display is to use two 12-bar Bi-colour bar-graphs. However, this LED bargraph is 'multiplexed'
- so to control all the 48 LEDs you need a lot of pins. There are driver chips like the MAX7219 that can help control a bar-graph/matrix for you but there's a lot of wiring to set up & they take up a ton of space. Much like our 8x 8 & 7-segment backpacks, this backpack pairs perfectly with our bar-graphs & manages all the LED control & multiplexing. The backpack uses a driver chip that does all the heavy lifting for you: It has a built in clock so it can multiplex the display. It uses constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour, 1/16 step display dimming, all via a simple I2C interface. The backpack comes with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to eight of these bar-graphs on a single I2C bus. You can also mix-&-match the bar-graph breakout with our other types of I2C LED backpacks.
...

• Built in clock which can multiplex the display• Constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour•1/16 step display dimming• All via a simple I2C interface• The backpacks come with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to four mini 8x 8's or eight 7-segments/bicolour• And to view the library please click here to help you get started!• To see Adafruits tutorial showing how to solder, wire & control the display please click here What's better than a single LED? Lots of LEDs! A fun way to make a small colourful display is to use a 1.2" Bi-color 8x 8 LED Matrix. Matrices like these are 'multiplexed'
- so to control all the 128 LEDs you need 24 pins. That's a lot of pins, & there are driver chips like the MAX7219 that can help control a matrix for you but there's a lot of wiring to set up & they take up a ton of space. We have them in three flavours
- a mini 8x 8, 1.2" Bi-color 8x 8 & a 4-digit 0.56" 7-segment. The matrices use a driver chip that does all the heavy lifting for you: They have a built in clock so they multiplex the display. They use constant-current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour, 1/16 step display dimming, all via a simple I2C interface. The backpacks come with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to four mini 8x 8's or eight 7-segments/bicolour (or a combination, such as four mini 8x 8's & two 7-segments & two bicolour, etc) on a single I2C bus.

...

• The pixels are chainable
- so you only need 1 pin/wire to control as many LEDs as you like• Full 24-bit colour ability with PWM
...

• Measures temperature via the subjects emitted IR waves• An embedded thermopile sensor generates a (small) voltage dependant on IR levels, which can be used to measure temperature• Measurement taken over an area so can be used to work out average temperatures• Works with 3 to 5V logic
- no logic level shifting needed•
Includes: a small piece of 0.1"" breakaway header so you can easily solder to & use this sensor on a breadboard•i 2c compatible interface•20mm long by 20mm wide Unlike all the other temperature sensors we have, this breakout has a really cool IR sensor from TI that can measure the temperature of an object without touching it! Simply point the sensor towards what you want to measure & it will detect the temperature by absorbing IR waves emitted. The embedded thermopile sensor generates a very very small voltage depending on how much IR there is, & using some math, that micro voltage can be used to calculate the temperature. It also takes the measurement over an area so it can be handy for determining the average temperature of something. This sensor comes as a ultra-small 0.5mm pitch BGA, too hard to solder by h&. So we stuck it on an easy-to-work-with breakout board. The sensor works with 3 to 5V logic so it requires no logic level shifting. There are two address pins & using a funky method of connecting the pins you can have up to 8 TMP006's connected to one i 2c bus (see the datasheet table 1 for the connections). We also include a small piece of 0.1" breakaway header so you can easily solder to & use this sensor on a breadboard. Two mounting holes make it easy to attach to an enclosure. Of course, we wouldn't just hand you a datasheet & wish you luck, theres an easy-to-use Arduino library with an example that will have you up & running in 5 minutes. The code can also be ported to any microcontroller with i 2c support, the hardest math part has already been taken care of. The nice folks at Adafruit have even knocked up an Arduino library click here. Wanting more information clock here to see the datasheet. And the easy to use user guide can be found here.

...

•I2C-controlled• Works with both Raspberry Pi & Arduino• Low current draw (0.5m A when sensing, 15u A when idle)• Address select pins (up to 3 of these on a single I2C bus)• Separately measure infra-red, full-spectrum or human-visible light• Built in ADC means you can use this with any microcontroller (even if it doesn't have analog inputs)• Fully tested & assembled breakout board• All headers included (to solder yourself) The TSL2561 luminosity sensor is an advanced digital light sensor, ideal to be used in a wide range of light situations. Compared to low cost Cd S cells, this sensor is more precise, allowing for exact lux calculations & can be configured for different gain/timing ranges to detect light ranges from up to 0.1
- 40, 000+ Lux on the fly. The best part of this sensor is that it contains both infrared & full spectrum diodes! That means you can separately measure infrared, full-spectrum or human-visible light. Most sensors can only detect one or the other, which does not accurately represent what human eyes see (since we cannot perceive the IR light that is detected by most photo diodes) The sensor has a digital (i 2c) interface. You can select one of three addresses so you can have up to three sensors on one board
- each with a different i 2c address. The built in ADC means you can use this with any microcontroller, even if it doesn't have analogue inputs. The current draw is extremely low, so its great for low power data-logging systems. about 0.5m A when actively sensing, & less than 15 u A when in powerdown mode. To view the datasheet please click here

...

• The default 'max gain' is 60d B, but can be set to 40d B or 50d B by jumpering the Gain pin to VCC or ground• You can change the Attack/ Release ratio, from the default 1:4000 to 1:2000 or 1:500• The output from the amp is about 2 Vpp max on a 1.25V DC bias, so it can be easily used with any Analog/ Digital converter that is up to 3.3V input• If you want to pipe it into a Line Input, just use a 1u F blocking capacitor in series This fancy microphone amplifier module is a step above the rest, with built in automatic gain control. The AGC in the amplifier means that nearby 'loud' sounds will be quieted so they don't overwhelm & 'clip' the amplifier, & even quiet, far-away sounds will be amplified. This amplifier is great for when you want to record or detect audio in a setting where levels change & you don't want to have to tweak the amplifier gain all the time. The chip at the heart of this amp is the MAX9814 If you just need to keep track of audio levels, see this sound-level meter tutorial for Arduino found here Each order comes with one assembled & tested board, with an electret mic pre-soldered on, & a small piece of header. Adafruits tutorial will get you started with using & testing the microphone amplifier & you can check out their general-purpose microphone amplifier tutorial for other project ideas & code ...

• Fully tested & assembled breakout board• All headers included (to solder yourself)• Great low-noise performance•20-20 K Hz electret microphone• Maxim MX4466 op-amp for amplification• Small trimmer pot on the back to adjust gain (25x to 125x) Add an ear to your project with this well-designed electret microphone amplifier. This fully assembled & tested board comes with a 20-20 K Hz electret microphone soldered on. For the amplification, we use the Maxim MAX4466, an op-amp specifically designed for this delicate task! The amplifier has excellent power supply noise rejection, so this amplifier sounds really good & isn't nearly as noisy or scratchy as other mic amp breakouts we've tried! This breakout is best used for projects such as voice changers, audio recording/sampling, & audio-reactive projects that use FFT. On the back, we include a small trimmer pot to adjust the gain. You can set the gain from 25x to 125x. That's down to be about 200m Vpp (for normal speaking volume about 6" away) which is good for attaching to something that expects 'line level' input without clipping, or up to about 1 Vpp, ideal for reading from a microcontroller ADC. The output is rail-to-rail so if the sounds gets loud, the output can go up to 5 Vpp! Using it is simple: connect GND to ground, VCC to 2.4-5VDC. For the best performance, use the "quietest" supply available (on an Arduino, this would be the 3.3V supply). The audio waveform will come out of the OUT pin. The output will have a DC bias of VCC/2 so when its perfectly quiet, the voltage will be a steady VCC/2 volts (it is DC coupled). Connect the OUT pin directly to the microcontroller ADC pin. ...