A non extreme pressure mineral based gear oil. These products are specifically formulated for vintage transmission systems. They contains inhibitors to prevent the formation of rust, to promote good oxidation resistance & encourage long life. User Benefits Non EP GL1 formulation specifically for vintage applications. Contains inhibitors to prevent formation of rust. Good oxidation resistance & long life. ...

Vintage Millerol is a non-detergent monograde mineral engine oil. It is specifically engineered for vintage cars with a strainer or basic filtration systems. It is formulated with ZDDP (zinc/phosphorus). Specially formulated to protect vintage engines Provides anti-scuff performance Resistant to oil oxidation & bearing corrosion Use as received in vintage vehicles when a non-detergent/dispersant oil is called for. Can be used in gearbox applications where a GL1 oil is specified. Available in SAE viscosity grades 30, 40 & 50. ...

At some time everyone experiences minor interior damage
- a small cut or burn on seats or dashboard. The Vinyl & Leather (Heat
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A professional & hard wearing backing pad with Vinyl for self adhesive abrasive discs. Size 150mm x 10mm. 5/16 thread. Suitable for Air DA & palm sanders. ...

Additional Coloured Dye for Coloured anodising dye Kits. 1 litre, dilute for 5 litres. Colours Available: Black/ Blue / Green / Red / violet / Yellow After the Dye has been stood for some time, a sediment/growth may occur. If this happens the dye should be boiled for 10 minutes & filtered/decanted to remove this before use. NOTE: Colour patches are for guidance only. Exact colours are difficult to show, due to each monitors display settings. ...

The V5 DIY has the bare necessities for world class brake & clutch bleeding at an economy price. We have known for years that trapped air kills the response of even high end brake systems & leaves your “average” brake or clutch assembly mushy, weak & dangerous. So how do we obliterate trapped air making sure the brake system performs to its top potential? By pushing the air up! Not Down… Reverse Bleeding injects fluid at the low points, the slave bleeder valves. Reverse Bleeding takes advantage of the “laws of Physics” air rises in fluid. The complete system is bled by forcing the air up & out the master cylinder reservoir. The brake fluid then fills the reservoir.

Features: Patented reverse fluid Injection Removes trapped air in brake system which is the main cause of a "spongy pedal"

Includes:: main fittings & adapters to perform basic brake & clutch bleeding Suitable for all brake fluid Easily bleed ABS Good for DOT 3, 4, 5.1 One man brake bleeder in 15 minute operation Fits all vehicles
- Great for Motorcycles Multiple uses for the home & shop No rebuild kits available




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Black flock lined sliding window channel for 6mm glass – 11.5mm outside width x 11.5mm outside depth. Used for various sliding window applications in classic cars & in various applications in bus, caravan, air, rail, marine & other industries. ...

Automotive test, tune up & brake bleed vacuum pump with adaptor kit. Ideal for a wide variety of automotive applications. Applications for car & motorcycle include: brake & clutch bleeding, fluid extraction, vacuum valve testing (turbo, EGR), fuel pressure regulator testing. Kit
Includes:: vacuum pump, 1 fluid reservoir (4.5floz), 3 x reservoir caps, 5 fluid hoses. 2 universal bleed screw adaptors, 8 x tapered adaptors. 1 x T-joint, 1 straight joint & cupped joint. Pump flow rate = 1in³ per stroke. Gauge: 0 to -30 In/ Hg (inches of Mercury). 0 to -760mm/ Hg (millimeters of Mercury).
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Tyre valve screwdriver. A neat tool which quickly removes & installs both valve sizes ...

How Does It Work? When a vehicle is laid up there is a quantity of air trapped inside the vehicle together with water vapour & bacteria. This produses mould on surfaces & corrosion on metal. Vent-a-space collects this fixed quantity of air & continuously circulates it. Firstly the air passes through a biological filter, it is then heated slightly to remove any water vapour. The air is then disinfected. this cycle is repeated constantly ensuring only clean air can remain in the vehicle. & any mould or bacteria is killed. The most effective place in a car is between the front seats with the output directed towards the windscreen & dashboard. This gives greatest protection to the most vulnerable bits & creates a good circulating airflow around the whole of the interior. The picure shows an extreme case but this damage occurred within six months of a car being left in storage. The damage is far worse than first appears. Plastic surfaces can usually be wiped clean but fabrics, stitching & plated switch contacts are usually inaccessible & the controls & switches etc. All need to be dismantled & cleaned to remove the mould before they would work properly again. When the vehicle is left the air is trapped inside with water vapour & bacteria & the mould begins to develop very quickly. Carpets & upholstery can be permanently damaged Quality cars such as rolls royce & bentleys have the added risk of damage to wooden cappings & trim damage. the dampness can cause the varnish to lift & split from the wood. all these problems can be avoided. ===================== Comment from user: " When I put my car away I fit the battery saver & the ventaspace whilst the interior is warm & dry, close the air intake control for the air-con/heater to capture the warm dry air. I have a Range Rover which sits in the drive rarely used with a vent-a-space running. I can see it from my lounge window & can tell there is a lack of condensation on the interior of the glass since fitting it (4 cubic metres) & it feels much nicer when I do use it." ...