` The scum of Greenwich Village, New York, has been skimmed off & deposited in large ladled on that section of Paris adjacent to the Cafe Rotonde. New scum, of course, has risen to take the place of the old, but the oldest scum, the thickest scum & the scummiest scum has come across the ocean, somehow, & with its afternoon & evening levees has made the Rotonde the leading Latin Quarter showplace for tourists in search of atmosphere.`