Forever characterised as two towns dramatically divided by the Danube, Budapest is back at the heart of Europe. This metropolis of ornate spas, opulent hotels & elegant coffee-houses is reliving its glory days as a Habsburg hub. Now, after a century of wars, uprisings & Socialist stasis, the Hungarian capital is gleaming again with luxury options. Away from the five-star hotels along the river & city ring, Budapest is also a-buzz with cultural fire-power & underground energy. While inner-city courtyards bloom as bohemian nightspots for DJs (the same DJs who spin at foam parties in all-night Turkish baths), a high-brow arts agenda thrives in a sumptuous opera house & the prestigious contemporary National Theatre. Gypsy, folk & Balkan styles are regular features on the concert programme. New downtown shopping hubs display the best of today's Hungarian art, fashion & design, distinct from the time-warp tourist traps of yesterday.