• Requires a 5V supply• Constant current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour•1/16 step display dimming•I2C interface• Backpack comes with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to eight 1.2" 8x 8's together (or a combination, such as four 1.2" 8x 8's & four 7-segments, etc) on a single I2C bus. What's better than a single LED? Lots of LEDs! But adding an LED matrix can mean a lot of wiring & space. This little kit makes the whole thing simple & tidy! The product kit comes with:A fully tested & assembled LED backpack 1.2" Ultra-bright 8x 8 matrix 4-pin header Adafruit have even provided a tutorial showing how to solder, wire & control the display & click here for the library to help you get started! ...

• Requires a 5V supply• Constant current drivers for ultra-bright, consistent colour•1/16 step display dimming•I2C interface• Backpack comes with address-selection jumpers so you can connect up to eight 1.2" 8x 8's together (or a combination, such as four 1.2" 8x 8's & four 7-segments, etc) on a single I2C bus. What's better than a single LED? Lots of LEDs! But adding an LED matrix can mean a lot of wiring & space. This little kit makes the whole thing simple & tidy! The product kit comes with:A fully tested & assembled LED backpack 1.2" Ultra-bright 8x 8 matrix 4-pin header Adafruit have even provided a tutorial showing how to solder, wire & control the display & click here for the library to help you get started! ...

• No microcontroller required• Just power with 1.8 to 5.5VDC & connect up to 5 conductive pads to the 5 left hand pins• When a load is detected (someone touches one of the contacts) the corresponding LED lights up & the output pin goes low• Only one contact detected at once Add multiple capacitive touch sensors to your project! Comes with a fully assembled board & a stick of 0.1" header, check out Adafruits handy tutorial ...

• No microcontroller required
- power with 1.8 to 5VDC & touch the pad to activate the sensor• Toggle output
- touch-on then

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• No microcontroller required
- power with 1.8 to 5VDC & touch the pad to activate the sensor• Toggle output
- touch-on then

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• Output Power: 2.8W at 4O, 10% THD, 1.7W at 8O, 10% THD, with 5V Supply•PSRR: 70 d B typ @ 217 Hz with 6 d B gain• Designed for use without an output filter, when wires are kept at under 2""-4"" long• Four pin-selectable gains: 6d B, 12d B, 18d B & 24d B• Select with the onboard switches or by setting the G0 & G1 breakout pins• Excellent click-&-pop suppression• Thermal shutdown protection• Independent channel shutdown• Low current draw: 5m A quiescent & 2u A in shutdown mode• To view the schematic please click here This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful
- able to deliver 2 x 2.8W channels into 4 ohm impedance speakers (@ 10% THD). Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC & incredibly efficient (89% efficient when driving an 8O speaker at 1.5 Watt)
- making it perfect for portable & battery-powered projects. Inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0u F capacitors, so they are fully 'differential'
- if you don't have differential outputs, simply tie the R- & L- to ground. Outputs are "" Bridge Tied""
- that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a ~300 K Hz square wave PWM that is then 'averaged out' by the speaker coil
- the high frequencies are not heard. All the above means that you can't connect the output into another amplifier, it should drive the speakers directly. Comes with a fully assembled & tested breakout board with 1.0u F input capacitors. We also include a dual mini DIP switch for setting the amplifier gain on the fly, 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks so you can easily attach/detach your speakers, & some header in case you want to plug it into a breadboard. You will be ready to rock in 15 minutes! Speakers are not included, use any 4 ohm or 8 ohm impedance speakers.




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• Power from 4.5V-14V DC voltage• Up to 93% efficient (88-93% typical)•20m A quiescent current (or put into shutdown for 1u A quiescent)• Up to 29.5d B max gain• Use DC or AC coupled line-level input, up to 3 Vpp• Filter less Spread-Spectrum Modulation Lowers• Radiated RF Emissions from Speaker Cables•20W Stereo Output (4O, VDD = 12V, THD+N = 10%)• Low 0.04% THD+N• Integrated Click-&-Pop Suppression• Short-Circuit & Thermal-Overload Protection•
Includes: polarity-protection, jacks & terminal blocks, i 2c level shifting, & a spot to solder in a volume pot• Check out the detailed tutorial please click here Pump up the volume with this 20W stereo amplifier! This slim little board has a class D amplifier onboard that can drive 2 channels of 4-8 ohm impedance speakers at 20W each. Power it with 5-12VDC using the onboard DC power jack & plug stereo line level into the 3.5mm stereo headphone jack & jam out with ease. Since it's class D, its completely cool-running, no heat sinks are required & it's extremely efficient
- up to 93% efficiency makes it great for portable or battery powered rigs. We like the MAX9744 amplifier at the heart of this board because its very easy to use, but it also has both analogue & digital volume control capability. Use a single 1KO pot (we include one) to adjust volume analogue-style. Or hook it up to your favourite microcontroller & send I2C commands to set 64-steps of volume amplification.

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• Two ground pins, one switched power pin, & one pin that is always on• Compatible with the JST PH 2-pin connectors This switched JST connector is the best way to quickly prototype with our Li Poly batteries. Adafruit paired a genuine JST connector with a slide switch that can do up to 600m A. Both are soldered onto a breadboard-friendly breakout. ...

• The circuitry on-board handles the background key-presses & LED lighting for the 4x 4 tile• Each tile has an I2C-controlled LED sequencer & keypad reader already on it• The chip controls all 16 LEDs individually• The connections are 'diode multiplexed'• Each LED is multiplexed with a constant-current driver, so you can mix & match any colors you like.• We would recommend our super bright LEDs Blue, Yellow, Red & White• Please click here to see the detailed tutorial guide• Please click here to see the Trellis Library Trellis is an open source backlight keypad driver system. It is easy to use, works with any 3mm LEDs & eight tiles can be tiled together on a shared I2C bus. This PCB is specially made to match the Adafruit 4x 4 elastomer keypad. Each Trellis PCB has 4x 4 pads & 4x 4 matching spots for 3mm LEDs. The circuitry on-board handles the background key-presses & LED lighting for the 4x 4 tile. However, it does not have any microcontroller or other 'brains'
- an Arduino (or similar microcontroller) is required to control the Trellis to read the key press data & let it know when to light up LEDs as desired. Each tile has an I2C-controlled LED sequencer & keypad reader already on it. The chip can control all 16 LEDs individually, turning them on or off. It cannot do greyscale or dimming. The same chip also reads any key presses made with the rubber keypad. The connections are 'diode multiplexed' so you do not have to worry about "ghosting" when pressing multiple keys, each key is uniquely addressed. The tiles have 3 address jumpers. You can tile up to 8 PCBs together (for a total of 4x 32 or 16x 8=128 buttons/leds) on a single I2C bus, as long as each one has a unique address. All the tiles connect by the edges with solder, & share the same power, ground, interrupt, & i 2c clock/data pins. So, you can easily set up to 128 LEDs & read up to 128 buttons using only 2 I2C wires! The tiles can be arranged in any configuration they want as long as each tile is connected to another with the 5 edge-fingers. Each LED is multiplexed with a constant-current driver, so you can mix & match any colours you like. You don't need it to be all blue, all red, etc. Mix it up!
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•ATtiny 85 on-board, 8K of flash, 512 byte of SRAM, 512 bytes of EEPROM•USB boot-loader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE• Mini-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram• We really worked hard on the boot-loader process to make it rugged & foolproof, this board wont up & die on you in the middle of a project!•~5.25K bytes available for use (2.75K taken for the boot-loader)• On-board 3.3V or 5V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout• Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection• Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over• On-board green power LED & red pin 1 LED• Reset button for entering the boot-loader or restarting the program• No need to unplug/replug the board every time you want to reset or update!•5 GPIO
- 2 shared with the USB (Universal Serial Bus) interface• The 3 independent IO pins have 1 analogue input & 2 PWM output as well• The 2 shared IO pins have 2 more analogue inputs & one more PWM output• Hardware I2C / SPI capability for breakout & sensor interfacing• Mounting holes! Yeah!• Really really small!• Please Click here for the detailed tutorial guide Trinket may be small, but do not be fooled by its size! It's a tiny microcontroller board, built around the Atmel ATtiny 85, a little chip with a lot of power. We wanted to design a microcontroller board that was small enough to fit into any project, & low cost enough to use without hesitation. Perfect for when you don't want to give up your expensive dev-board & you aren't willing to take apart the project you worked so hard to design. It's our lowest-cost arduino-IDE programmable board! The Attiny 85 is a fun processor because despite being so small, it has 8K of flash, & 5 I/O pins, including analogue inputs & PWM 'analogue' outputs. We designed a USB (Universal Serial Bus) boot loader so you can plug it into any computer & reprogram it over a USB (Universal Serial Bus) port just like an Arduino. In fact we even made some simple modifications to the Arduino IDE so that it works like a mini-Arduino board. You can't stack a big shield on it but for many small & simple projects the Trinket will be your go-to platform. This is the 3V Trinket. There are two versions of the Trinket. One is 3V & one is 5V. Both work the same, but have different operating logic voltages. Use the 3V one to interface with sensors & devices that need 3V logic, or when you want to power it off of a Li Po battery. The 3V version should only run at 8 MHz. Use the 5V one for sensors & components that can use or require 5V logic. The 5V version can run at 8 MHz or at 16 M Hz by setting the software-set clock frequency. Even though you can program Trinket using the Arduino IDE, it's not a fully 100% Arduino-compatible. There are some things you trade off for such a small & low cost microcontroller!• Trinket does not have a Serial port connection for debugging so the serial port monitor will not be able to send/receive data• Some computers' USB (Universal Serial Bus) v 3 ports don't recognize the Trinket's boot loader. Simply use a USB (Universal Serial Bus) v 2 port or a USB (Universal Serial Bus) hub in between• Trinket is not supported on Linux operating system at this time
- try Mac OS or Windows!


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