•ATmega 328P onboad chip in QFN package•12 M Hz clock rate, 28K FLASH available•USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE• Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming• Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram• On-board 3.3V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection• Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over• On-board green power LED & red pin 13 LED• Reset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program• Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches• Mounting holes! Yeah! Trinket's got a big sister in town
- the Pro Trinket! Pro Trinket combines everything you love about Trinket with the familiarity of the core Arduino chip, the ATmega 328. It's like an Arduino Pro Mini with more pins & USB (Universal Serial Bus) tossed in. Trinket's a year old now, & while its been great to see tons of tiny projects, sometimes you just need more pins, more FLASH, & more RAM. That's why Adafruit designed Pro Trinket, with 18 GPIO, 2 extra analog inputs, 28K of flash, & 2K of RAM. Like the Trinket, it has onboard USB (Universal Serial Bus) bootloading support
- Adafruit opted for a Micro USB jack this time. Adafruit also added Optiboot support, so you can either program your Pro Trinket over USB (Universal Serial Bus) or with a FTDI cable just like the Pro Mini & friends. The Pro Trinket PCB measures only 1.5"" x 0.7"" x 0.2"" (without headers) but packs the same capability as an Arduino UNO. So it's great once you've finished up a prototype on an official Arduino UNO & want to make the project smaller. The Pro Trinket uses the Atmega 328P chip, which is the same core chip in the Arduino UNO/ Duemilanove/ Mini/etc. However, the 3V version uses 3V logic & 12 M Hz clock which means it's good when you want a lower-power & lower-voltage setup. Pro Trinket is programmable using the Arduino IDE as you already set up, & 95% of Arduino projects will work out of the box! For tons more details, check out the Introducing Pro Trinket tutorial or the Datasheet Here's some things you may have to consider when adapting Arduino sketches: Pins 2 & 7 are not available (they are exclusively for USB) The Pro Trinket 3V runs at 12 M Hz, this doesn't affect most projects. Only the most timing-specific libraries may be affected, check the documentation! The Neo Pixel Library works fine at 12 M Hz. The onboard power supply is a 3.3V regulator & it can provide 150m A output You cannot plug shields directly into the Pro Trinket There is no Serial-to-USB chip onboard. This is to keep the Pro Trinket small & inexpensive, you can use any FTDI cable to connect to the FTDI port for a Serial connection. The USB (Universal Serial Bus) connection is for uploading new code only. The bootloader on the Pro Trinket use 4KB of FLASH so the maximum sketch size is 28, 672 bytes. The bootloader does not affect RAM usage. Here's some handy specifications:ATmega 328P onboad chip in QFN package 12 M Hz clock rate, 28K FLASH available USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE (with a few simple config modifications). Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram. On-board 3.3V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection. Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over On-board green power LED & red pin 13 LEDReset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program. Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches (anything that doesn't use more than 28K, & doesn't require pins 2 & 7) Mounting holes! Yeah!



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•ATmega 328P onboad chip in QFN package•16 M Hz clock rate, 28K FLASH available•USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE• Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming• Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram• On-board 5V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection• Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over• On-board green power LED & red pin 13 LED• Reset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program• Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches• Mounting holes! Yeah! Trinket's got a big sister in town
- the Pro Trinket! Pro Trinket combines everything you love about Trinket with the familiarity of the core Arduino chip, the ATmega 328. It's like an Arduino Pro Mini with more pins & USB (Universal Serial Bus) tossed in. Trinket's a year old now, & while its been great to see tons of tiny projects, sometimes you just need more pins, more FLASH, & more RAM. That's why Adafruit designed Pro Trinket, with 18 GPIO, 2 extra analog inputs, 28K of flash, & 2K of RAM. Like the Trinket, it has onboard USB (Universal Serial Bus) bootloading support
- Adafruit opted for a Micro USB jack this time. Adafruit also added Optiboot support, so you can either program your Pro Trinket over USB (Universal Serial Bus) or with a FTDI cable just like the Pro Mini & friends. The Pro Trinket PCB measures only 1.5"" x 0.7"" x 0.2"" (without headers) but packs the same capability as an Arduino UNO. So it's great once you've finished up a prototype on an official Arduino UNO & want to make the project smaller. The Pro Trinket uses the Atmega 328P chip, which is the same core chip in the Arduino UNO/ Duemilanove/ Mini/etc. However, the 3V version uses 3V logic & 12 M Hz clock which means it's good when you want a lower-power & lower-voltage setup. Pro Trinket is programmable using the Arduino IDE as you already set up, & 95% of Arduino projects will work out of the box! For tons more details, check out the Introducing Pro Trinket tutorial or the Datasheet Here's some things you may have to consider when adapting Arduino sketches: Pins 2 & 7 are not available (they are exclusively for USB) The Pro Trinket 5V runs at 16 M Hz, this doesn't affect most projects. Only the most timing-specific libraries may be affected, check the documentation! The Neo Pixel Library works fine at 12 M Hz. The onboard power supply is a 5V regulator & it can provide 150m A output You cannot plug shields directly into the Pro Trinket There is no Serial-to-USB chip onboard. This is to keep the Pro Trinket small & inexpensive, you can use any FTDI cable to connect to the FTDI port for a Serial connection. The USB (Universal Serial Bus) connection is for uploading new code only. The bootloader on the Pro Trinket use 4KB of FLASH so the maximum sketch size is 28, 672 bytes. The bootloader does not affect RAM usage. Here's some handy specifications:ATmega 328P onboad chip in QFN package 16 M Hz clock rate, 28K FLASH available USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE (with a few simple config modifications). Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram. On-board 5V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection. Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over On-board green power LED & red pin 13 LEDReset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program. Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches (anything that doesn't use more than 28K, & doesn't require pins 2 & 7) Mounting holes! Yeah!



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• Easy set up: connect power source to Ground & IN, then the load from Ground to OUT• Uses a 3A P-FET to connect & disconnect IN pin to OUT pin• Works from 3V to 14V DC & up to 3A•
Includes: a 12mm tactile switch but you can solder in your own if needed•0.5u A quiescent current draw• On-board red LED lights up when active• Fourth KILL pin will turn off the FET when 1 or more volts is applied, can be used to allow your project to turn itself off! The Adafruit Push-button Power Switch is a tidy little design that lets you control a DC power source using an everyday tactile button. The breakout uses a latching analog circuit that is triggered by a push of the button. Press once to turn on, then press again to turn off. The circuit uses a 3A P-FET to connect & disconnect the IN pin to the OUT pin. Works great from 3V to 14VDC & up to 3A (although the FET gets a little toasty at continuous 3A draw) yet has only 0.5u A quiescent current draw. Using it is easy: connect the power source to Ground & IN, then the load from Ground to OUT. We include a 12mm tactile switch that works well but you can solder in your own switch as well. Press the button (or short the button pins) to alternate between on or off. A on-board red LED will light up when active so you know its working. There's a fourth KILL pin, which you can use to turn off the load and/or keep it off even if the button is pressed. When 1 or more volts is applied it will instantly turn off the FET. This allows your project to turn itself off. Comes with a assembled & tested bread-board friendly breakout board with four mounting holes, a 12mm tactile button, & some 0.1" male header you can solder to the board to plug it into a breadboard. The power switch is an elegant way to control power to your project, but there are some things to keep in mind: since there is a pass FET, this is only for 3-14V DC voltages. This is not a mechanical switch so there is no air-gap isolation. There is a 'body diode' in the pass FET so if the load has a voltage on it that is higher than the input voltage, current will flow back to the input. There is built-in debouncing but very bouncy switches can be annoying as they will turn on & off fast instead of latching.
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• This is a nice, bright alphanumeric display that shows letters & numbers in a beautiful hue• It's super bright & designed for viewing from distances up to 23 feet (7 meters) away• Digits have seven white segments on a black surface & you get a set of two alphanumeric displays as well as a driver board so you can make a clock or a four letter word Display, elegantly, 012345678 or 9! Gaze, hypnotized, at ABCDEFGHIJKLM
- well it can display the whole alphabet! This is a nice, bright alphanumeric display that shows letters & numbers in a beautiful hue. It's super bright & designed for viewing from distances up to 23 feet (7 meters) away. Digits have seven white segments on a black surface & you get a set of two alphanumeric displays as well as a driver board so you can make a clock or a four letter word. Like our other LED backpacks, these are end-to-end stackable & by soldering the address jumpers on the back you can have up to 8 backpacks all sharing the same two I2C wires! This product comes with:2 x Ultra-Bright Alphanumeric Display
- 0.54" Digit Height for 4 digits total 1 x Adafruit 14-segment LED Alphanumeric Backpack 1 x 5-pin header A bit of soldering is required to attach the matrix onto the backpack but its very easy to do & only takes about 5 minutes. Of course, in classic Adafruit fashion, they also have a detailed tutorial showing you how to solder, wire & control the display If you've been eying alphanumeric displays but hesitated because of the complexity, this is the solution you've been looking for! This board/chip uses I2C 7-bit addresses between 0x 70-0x 77, selectable with jumpers.

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• This is a nice, bright alphanumeric display that shows letters & numbers in a beautiful hue• It's super bright & designed for viewing from distances up to 23 feet (7 meters) away• Digits have seven white segments on a black surface & you get a set of two alphanumeric displays as well as a driver board so you can make a clock or a four letter word Display, elegantly, 012345678 or 9! Gaze, hypnotized, at ABCDEFGHIJKLM
- well it can display the whole alphabet! This is a nice, bright alphanumeric display that shows letters & numbers in a beautiful hue. It's super bright & designed for viewing from distances up to 23 feet (7 meters) away. Digits have seven white segments on a black surface & you get a set of two alphanumeric displays as well as a driver board so you can make a clock or a four letter word. Like our other LED backpacks, these are end-to-end stackable & by soldering the address jumpers on the back you can have up to 8 backpacks all sharing the same two I2C wires! This product comes with:2 x Ultra-Bright Alphanumeric Display
- 0.54" Digit Height for 4 digits total 1 x Adafruit 14-segment LED Alphanumeric Backpack 1 x 5-pin header A bit of soldering is required to attach the matrix onto the backpack but its very easy to do & only takes about 5 minutes. Of course, in classic Adafruit fashion, they also have a detailed tutorial showing you how to solder, wire & control the display If you've been eying alphanumeric displays but hesitated because of the complexity, this is the solution you've been looking for! This board/chip uses I2C 7-bit addresses between 0x 70-0x 77, selectable with jumpers.

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•16x 2 Character LCD• Available in both positive & negative versions (for positive version see Maplin order code A66QN)•RGB backlight•5 buttons (4-way direction pad, & one select) provide programmable inputs • Contrast control• Extra-tall 26-pin GPIO header so the plate sits above USB (Universal Serial Bus) & Ethernet jacks• Uses only two pins (I2C) on the Raspberry Pi GPIO leaving the rest available for your own Maplin Project!• Can be used with other I2C bus devices• For a detailed tutorial guide please click here This new Adafruit Pi Plate makes it easy to use an RGB 16x 2 Character LCD. We really like the RGB Character LCDs we stock in the shop. (For RGB we have RGB negative & RGB positive.) Unfortunately, these LCDs do require quite a few digital pins, 6 to control the LCD & then another 3 to control the RGB backlight for a total of 9 pins. That's nearly all the GPIO available on a Pi! With this in mind, we wanted to make it easier for people to get these LCD into their projects so we devised a Pi plate that lets you control a 16x 2 Character LCD, up to 3 backlight pins & 5 keypad pins using only the two I2C pins on the R-Pi! The best part is you don't really lose those two pins either, since you can stick i 2c-based sensors, RTCs, etc & have them share the I2C bus. This is a super slick way to add a display without all the wiring hassle. This Pi plate is perfect for when you want to build a st&-alone project with its own user interface. The 4 directional buttons plus select button allows basic control without having to attach a bulky computer. The plate is designed for both Revision 1 & Revision 2 Raspberry Pi's. It uses the I2C (SDA/SCL) pins. We have a special xtra-tall 26-pin header so the plate sits above the USB (Universal Serial Bus) & Ethernet jacks. This product comes as a kit! Included is a high quality PCB & all the components (buttons, header etc). A 16x 2 Character RGB positive LCD is included! Assembly is easy, even if you've never soldered before & the kit can be completed in 30 minutes. ...

•16x 2 Character LCD• Available in both positive & negative versions (for negative version see Maplin order code A67QN)•RGB backlight•5 buttons (4-way direction pad, & one select) provide programmable inputs • Contrast control• Extra-tall 26-pin GPIO header so the plate sits above USB (Universal Serial Bus) & Ethernet jacks• Uses only two pins (I2C) on the Raspberry Pi GPIO leaving the rest available for your own Maplin Project!• Can be used with other I2C bus devices• For a detailed tutorial guide please click here This new Adafruit Pi Plate makes it easy to use an RGB 16x 2 Character LCD. We really like the RGB Character LCDs we stock in the shop. (For RGB we have RGB negative & RGB positive.) Unfortunately, these LCDs do require quite a few digital pins, 6 to control the LCD & then another 3 to control the RGB backlight for a total of 9 pins. That's nearly all the GPIO available on a Pi! With this in mind, we wanted to make it easier for people to get these LCD into their projects so we devised a Pi plate that lets you control a 16x 2 Character LCD, up to 3 backlight pins & 5 keypad pins using only the two I2C pins on the R-Pi! The best part is you don't really lose those two pins either, since you can stick i 2c-based sensors, RTCs, etc & have them share the I2C bus. This is a super slick way to add a display without all the wiring hassle. This Pi plate is perfect for when you want to build a st&-alone project with its own user interface. The 4 directional buttons plus select button allows basic control without having to attach a bulky computer. The plate is designed for both Revision 1 & Revision 2 Raspberry Pi's. It uses the I2C (SDA/SCL) pins. We have a special xtra-tall 26-pin header so the plate sits above the USB (Universal Serial Bus) & Ethernet jacks. This product comes as a kit! Included is a high quality PCB & all the components (buttons, header etc). A 16x 2 Character RGB positive LCD is included! Assembly is easy, even if you've never soldered before & the kit can be completed in 30 minutes. ...

•RGB & Clear light sensing elements•IR blocking filter, integrated on-chip & localised to the colour sensing photodiodes allows for more accurate measurements•3, 800, 000:1 dynamic range with adjustable time & gain so suitable for use behind darkened glass•3.3V regulator so you can power with 3-5VDC safely• Level shifting for i 2c pins means you can use 3.3V or 5V logic• Neutral 4150K temperature LED with MOSFET driver onboard to illuminate what you'r trying to sense (can be turned on or off using any logic level output•20.44mm by 20.28mm Your electronics can now see in dazzling colour with this lovely colour light sensor. We found the best colour sensor on the market, the TCS34725, which has RGB & Clear light sensing elements. An IR blocking filter, integrated on-chip & localized to the colour sensing photodiodes, minimizes the IR spectral component of the incoming light & allows colour measurements to be made accurately. The filter means you'll get much truer colour than most sensors, since humans don't see IR. The sensor also has an incredible 3, 800, 000:1 dynamic range with adjustable integration time & gain so it is suited for use behind darkened glass. We add supporting circuitry as well, such as a 3.3V regulator so you can power the breakout with 3-5VDC safely & level shifting for the I2C pins so they can be used with 3.3V or 5V logic. Finally, we specified a nice neutral 4150°K temperature LED with a MOSFET driver onboard to illuminate what you're trying to sense. The LED can be easily turned on or off by any logic level output. Connect to any microcontroller with I2C & our example code will quickly get you going with 4 channel readings. We include some example code to detect light lux & temperature that we snagged from the eval board software. A detailed tutorial can be found by clicking here Click here to check out our Arduino library & follow our tutorial to install Wire up the sensor by connecting VDD to 3-5VDC, Ground to common ground, SCL to I2C Clock & SDA to I2C Data on your Arduino. Restart the IDE & select the example sketch & start putting all your favourite fruit next to the sensor element! ...

• It's a digital sensor that works over I2C so just about any microcontroller can use it• Individual visible & IR sensing elements so you can measure just about any kind of light
- we only wrote our library to printout the 'counts' rather than the calculate the exact values of IR & Visible light so if you need precision Lux measurement check out the TSL2561• If you're feeling really advanced, you can connect up an IR LED to the LED pin & use the basic proximity sensor capability that is in the SI1145 as well• Adafruit wrapped this nice little sensor up on a PCB with level shifting & regulation circuitry so you can safely use it with 3 or 5V microcontrollers.•IR Sensor Spectrum: Wavelength: 550nm-1000nm (centered on 800)• Visible Light Sensor Spectrum: Wavelength: 400nm-800nm (centered on 530)• Voltage Supply: Power with 3-5VDC• Output Type: I2C address 0x 60 (7-bit)• Operating Temperature: -40°C ~ 85°CRemember when you were a kid & there was a birthday party at the pool & your parents totally embarrassed you by slathering you all over with sunscreen & you were all "MOM I HAVE ENOUGH SUNSCREEN" & she wouldn't listen? Well, if you had this UV Index sensor connected up to an Arduino you could have said " According to this calibrated SI1145 sensor from Si Labs, the UV index right now is 4.5 which means I do not need more sunscreen" & she would have been so impressed with your project that you could have spent more time splashing around. The SI1145 is a new sensor from Si Labs with a calibrated UV sensing algorithm that can calculate UV Index. We took this outside a couple days & compared the calculated UV index with the news-reported index & found it was very accurate! It's a digital sensor that works over I2C so just about any microcontroller can use it. The sensor also has individual visible & IR sensing elements so you can measure just about any kind of light
- we only wrote our library to printout the 'counts' rather than the calculate the exact values of IR & Visible light so if you need precision Lux measurement check out the TSL2561. If you're feeling really advanced, you can connect up an IR LED to the LED pin & use the basic proximity sensor capability that is in the SI1145 as well. We wrapped this nice little sensor up on a PCB with level shifting & regulation circuitry so you can safely use it with 3 or 5V microcontrollers. If you are using an Arduino, we've got a lovely tutorial & library already written up with example code so you can quickly read sensor readings & the UV index in under 10 minutes. Each order comes with one fully assembled & tested PCB breakout & a small piece of header. You'll need to solder the header onto the PCB but it's fairly easy & takes only a few minutes even for a beginner.

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• Each button is 10mm x 10mm square• Button pads tile up nicely edge to edge but can be cut down nicely if needed•3mm of travel when pressed to give a very satisfying feel• Conductive pad ring which can close a properly designed contact underneath• Perfect for use with the Adafruit Trellis (Maplin Code: A89QN)• We would recommend our super bright LEDs Blue, Yellow, Red & White So squishy! These silicone elastomer keypads are just waiting for your fingers to press them. Go ahead, squish all you like! (They're durable & easy to clean, just wipe with mild soap & water) These are just like the light up rubber buttons you find on stuff like appliances & tools, but these are open source & easy to integrate into your next project. Each button is 10mm x 10mm square & 10mm tall. There is 5mm of grid spacing between the buttons. You can 'tile' the button pads edge-to-edge & they'll grid up correctly. You can also cut the pads down if you like, the silicone is very soft. The way they're molded, they give about 3mm of travel when pressed for a very satisfying feel. They are completely quiet, however. On the bottom of each button is a conductive pad ring which can close a properly design contact underneath. Each button is 10mm tall & can fit a 3mm LED inside quite easily. 5mm LEDs are too big, so stick with 3mm here. The LED is optional, having it or not does not affect the 'action'. but it's nice to backlight buttons. ...