•60 rows of double 5-hole rows•4 power rails with positive/negative markings•6.2" x 2.0" (160mm x 55mm), 0.063" thick FR4•1.2mm / 0.047" drill holes•3 x 0.125" or 3.2mm mounting holes 2.95" apart This proto-board is the PCB you always wish you had, but never realized it! Adafruit took the basic layout of a quarter-sized breadboard (basically, a 'tiny' breadboard plus power rails) & turned that into a beautiful PCB. The top side has a white silkscreen, & the same markings you're familiar with, to make transferring components easy. The bottom has the 5-hole pad design that matches a classic breadboard, with 4 power bus lines on the sides, & no mask so you can easily cut traces when necessary. We used 1.2mm diameter drill holes so even parts with big leads will fit. All holes are thru-plated for strength
- these wont peel off with rework. The finish is a gold plate
- you won't get oxidation like with bare copper perf! There are also two mounting holes so you can attach the PCB to your project box.

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•30 rows of double 5-hole rows•4 power rails with positive/negative markings•3.2" x 2.0" (82mm x 55mm), 0.063" thick FR4•1.2mm / 0.047" drill holes•2 x 0.125" or 3.2mm mounting holes 1.9" apart This proto-board is the PCB you always wish you had, but never realized it! Adafruit took the basic layout of a quarter-sized breadboard (basically, a 'tiny' breadboard plus power rails) & turned that into a beautiful PCB. The top side has a white silkscreen, & the same markings you're familiar with, to make transferring components easy. The bottom has the 5-hole pad design that matches a classic breadboard, with 4 power bus lines on the sides, & no mask so you can easily cut traces when necessary.1.2mm diameter drill holes so even parts with big leads will fit. All holes are thru-plated for strength
- these wont peel off with rework. The finish is a gold plate
- you won't get oxidation like with bare copper perf! There are also two mounting holes so you can attach the PCB to your project box.

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•15 rows of double 5-hole rows•4 power rails with positive/negative markings•1.7" x 2.0" (44mm x 55mm), 0.063" thick FR4•1.2mm / 0.047" drill holes•2 x 0.125" or 3.2mm mounting holes 1.4" apart This proto-board is the PCB you always wish you had, but never realized it! Adafruit took the basic layout of a quarter-sized breadboard (basically, a 'tiny' breadboard plus power rails) & turned that into a beautiful PCB. The top side has a white silkscreen, & the same markings you're familiar with, to make transferring components easy. The bottom has the 5-hole pad design that matches a classic breadboard, with 4 power bus lines on the sides, & no mask so you can easily cut traces when necessary. We used 1.2mm diameter drill holes so even parts with big leads will fit. All holes are thru-plated for strength
- these wont peel off with rework. The finish is a gold plate
- you won't get oxidation like with bare copper perf! There are also two mounting holes so you can attach the PCB to your project box.

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•A large prototyping area mixed between breadboard style & perfboard• All GPIO/I2C/SPI & power pins are broken out to labelled 3.5mm screw terminals & 0.1"" header strips for easy prototyping• Suitable for semi-permanently wiring DIP chips, sensors, LEDs, etc• Extra 4-block 3.5mm screw terminal block for non-GPIO wiring•SOIC surface mount chip breakout area• Click here to view the detailed tutorial guide• To view the Pi Plate library please click here Now that you've finally got your hands on a Raspberry Pi®, you're probably itching to make some fun embedded computer projects with it. What you need is an add on prototyping Pi Plate from Adafruit, which can snap onto the Pi PCB (and is removable later if you wish) & gives you all sorts of prototyping goodness to make building on top of the Pi super easy. We added lots of basic but essential goodies. First up, there's a big prototyping area, half of which is 'breadboard' style & half of which is 'perfboard' style so you can wire up DIP chips, sensors, & the like. Along the edges of the proto area, all the GPIO/I2C/SPI & power pins are broken out to 0.1" stips so you can easily connect to them. On the edges of the prototyping area, all of the breakout pins are also connected to labeled 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks. This makes it easy to semi-permanently wire in sensors, LEDs, etc. There's also a 4-block terminal block broken out to 0.1" pads for general non-GPIO wiring. Finally, we had a little space remaining over the metal connectors so we put in an SOIC surface mount chip breakout area, for those chips that dont come in DIP format. Kit
Includes:: Custom PCB with silk screened pin labels 3.5mm screw terminal blocks Push header strips GPIO header socket It's dead simple to put together
- even a beginner can do it in twenty minutes!

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• Designed for Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 1 or Revision 2• Breaks out GPIO, I2C, SPI & power pins from the 26 pin header onto a solderless breadboard• Perfect for prototyping! This mini kit will make "cobbling together" prototypes with the Pi super easy. Now that you've finally got your hands on a Raspberry Pi®, you're probably itching to make some fun embedded computer projects with it. What you need is an add on prototyping Pi T-Cobbler from Adafruit, which can break out all those tasty power, GPIO, I2C & SPI pins from the 26 pin header onto a solderless breadboard. Designed for Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 1 or Revision 2. This Cobbler is in a fancy T-shape, which is not as compact, but is a little easier to read the labels. The Pi T-Cobbler mini kit comes with a 26 pin ribbon cable, a custom PCB, ribbon cable socket & header pins. A little soldering is required to put it together but its really easy, even a beginner can do it in 15 minutes so please click to read the tutorial. Once soldered together, the cable plugs between the Pi computer & the T-Cobbler breakout. The T-Cobbler can plug into any solderless breadboard (or even a prototyping board like the Perma Proto). The T-Cobbler PCB has all the pins labelled nicely so you can go forth & build circuits without keeping a pin-out printout at your desk. We think this will make it more fun to expand the Pi & build custom circuitry with it. The Adafruit Pi T-Cobbler is compatible with both versions 1 & 2 of the Raspberry Pi Computer
- for version 2 computers, note that the GPIO 21 has been replaced with GPIO 27 & that the I2C pins are now I2C port 1 instead of 0. All other pins are the same. Please note, this kit only contains a 26 pin ribbon cable, a custom PCB, ribbon cable socket & header pins. A Raspberry Pi, breadboard, breadboarding wires, cables, components, case, power supply, etc are not included! Raspberry Pi® is a trademark of the Raspberry Pi Foundation.
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•A 320x 240 2.8"" 16-bit display to enhance your Pi based projects• Resistive touch interface• Driven via hardware SPI interface to display a variety of images & outputs•GPIO breakout pins to work with Pi boards• Please click here to view the detailed guide & drivers Is this not the cutest little display for the Raspberry Pi? It features a 2.8" display with 320x 240 16-bit colour pixels & a resistive touch overlay. The plate uses the high speed SPI interface on the Pi & can use the mini display as a console, X window port, displaying images or video etc. Best of all it plugs right in on top! Uses the hardware SPI pins (SCK, MOSI, MISO, CE0, CE1) as well as GPIO 25 & 24. All other GPIO are unused. Since we had a tiny bit of space, there's 4 spots for optional slim tactile switches wired to four GPIOs, that you can use if you want to make a basic user interface. For example, you can use one as a power on/off button. See below for the link to get the optional tact switches, they're not included. This version comes as a mini-kit, with a 2x 13 extra-tall female header (to connect the plate to the Pi) & a 2x 13 male header that can be used to connect an IDC cable or cobbler from the side. ...

• Great for powering your robot, Arduino project, single-board-computer such as Raspberry Pi or Beagle Bone!• Synchronous operation means you can disconnect the output completely by connecting the ENable pin to ground•2A internal switch means you can get 500m A+ from as low as 1.8V, 750m A+ from 2 Ni MH or Alkaline batteries• And at least 1000m A from a 3.7V Li Poly/ Li Ion battery or 3 Ni MH/ Alkalines• Low battery indicator LED lights up red when the voltage dips below 3.2V, optimized for the most common usage of Li Po/ Li Ion battery usage• On-board 500m A charge-rate ' Apple/i OS' data resistors. Solder in the included USB (Universal Serial Bus) connector & you can plug in any iPhone or iPod for 500m A charge rate• Not suggested for iPad• Full breakout for battery in, control pins & power out•90%+ operating efficiency in most cases (see datasheet for efficiency graphs)• Low quiescent current: 5m A when enabled & power LED is on, 20u A when disabled (power & low batt LED are off) Power Boost is the perfect power supply for your portable project! This little DC/DC boost converter module can run from 1.8V batteries or higher, & convert that voltage to 5.2V DC for running your 5V projects. The output is tweaked to be 5.2V instead of a straight-up 5.0V so that there's a little bit of 'headroom' long cables, high draw, the addition of a diode on the output if you wish, etc. The 5.2V is safe for all 5V-powered electronics like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, or Beagle Bone while preventing icky brown-outs during high current draw because of USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable resistance. The Power Boost 500 has at the heart a TPS61090 boost converter from TI. This boost converter chip has some really nice extras such as low battery detection, 2A internal switch, synchronous conversion, excellent efficiency, & 700 K Hz high-frequency operation. Check out these specs! Each order comes with one fully assembled & tested PCB & a loose USB (Universal Serial Bus) A jack. If you are powering your project from USB (Universal Serial Bus), solder the USB (Universal Serial Bus) A jack in (a 3-minute soldering task). If you would like to use a terminal block, you'll need to pick up a 3.5mm 2pin block & solder to the output spot where the USB (Universal Serial Bus) jack would go. Or don't solder anything in for a more compact power pack. ...

•ATmega 328P onboad chip in QFN package•12 M Hz clock rate, 28K FLASH available•USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE• Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming• Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram• On-board 3.3V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection• Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over• On-board green power LED & red pin 13 LED• Reset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program• Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches• Mounting holes! Yeah! Trinket's got a big sister in town
- the Pro Trinket! Pro Trinket combines everything you love about Trinket with the familiarity of the core Arduino chip, the ATmega 328. It's like an Arduino Pro Mini with more pins & USB (Universal Serial Bus) tossed in. Trinket's a year old now, & while its been great to see tons of tiny projects, sometimes you just need more pins, more FLASH, & more RAM. That's why Adafruit designed Pro Trinket, with 18 GPIO, 2 extra analog inputs, 28K of flash, & 2K of RAM. Like the Trinket, it has onboard USB (Universal Serial Bus) bootloading support
- Adafruit opted for a Micro USB jack this time. Adafruit also added Optiboot support, so you can either program your Pro Trinket over USB (Universal Serial Bus) or with a FTDI cable just like the Pro Mini & friends. The Pro Trinket PCB measures only 1.5"" x 0.7"" x 0.2"" (without headers) but packs the same capability as an Arduino UNO. So it's great once you've finished up a prototype on an official Arduino UNO & want to make the project smaller. The Pro Trinket uses the Atmega 328P chip, which is the same core chip in the Arduino UNO/ Duemilanove/ Mini/etc. However, the 3V version uses 3V logic & 12 M Hz clock which means it's good when you want a lower-power & lower-voltage setup. Pro Trinket is programmable using the Arduino IDE as you already set up, & 95% of Arduino projects will work out of the box! For tons more details, check out the Introducing Pro Trinket tutorial or the Datasheet Here's some things you may have to consider when adapting Arduino sketches: Pins 2 & 7 are not available (they are exclusively for USB) The Pro Trinket 3V runs at 12 M Hz, this doesn't affect most projects. Only the most timing-specific libraries may be affected, check the documentation! The Neo Pixel Library works fine at 12 M Hz. The onboard power supply is a 3.3V regulator & it can provide 150m A output You cannot plug shields directly into the Pro Trinket There is no Serial-to-USB chip onboard. This is to keep the Pro Trinket small & inexpensive, you can use any FTDI cable to connect to the FTDI port for a Serial connection. The USB (Universal Serial Bus) connection is for uploading new code only. The bootloader on the Pro Trinket use 4KB of FLASH so the maximum sketch size is 28, 672 bytes. The bootloader does not affect RAM usage. Here's some handy specifications:ATmega 328P onboad chip in QFN package 12 M Hz clock rate, 28K FLASH available USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE (with a few simple config modifications). Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram. On-board 3.3V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection. Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over On-board green power LED & red pin 13 LEDReset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program. Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches (anything that doesn't use more than 28K, & doesn't require pins 2 & 7) Mounting holes! Yeah!



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•ATmega 328P onboad chip in QFN package•16 M Hz clock rate, 28K FLASH available•USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE• Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming• Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram• On-board 5V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection• Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over• On-board green power LED & red pin 13 LED• Reset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program• Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches• Mounting holes! Yeah! Trinket's got a big sister in town
- the Pro Trinket! Pro Trinket combines everything you love about Trinket with the familiarity of the core Arduino chip, the ATmega 328. It's like an Arduino Pro Mini with more pins & USB (Universal Serial Bus) tossed in. Trinket's a year old now, & while its been great to see tons of tiny projects, sometimes you just need more pins, more FLASH, & more RAM. That's why Adafruit designed Pro Trinket, with 18 GPIO, 2 extra analog inputs, 28K of flash, & 2K of RAM. Like the Trinket, it has onboard USB (Universal Serial Bus) bootloading support
- Adafruit opted for a Micro USB jack this time. Adafruit also added Optiboot support, so you can either program your Pro Trinket over USB (Universal Serial Bus) or with a FTDI cable just like the Pro Mini & friends. The Pro Trinket PCB measures only 1.5"" x 0.7"" x 0.2"" (without headers) but packs the same capability as an Arduino UNO. So it's great once you've finished up a prototype on an official Arduino UNO & want to make the project smaller. The Pro Trinket uses the Atmega 328P chip, which is the same core chip in the Arduino UNO/ Duemilanove/ Mini/etc. However, the 3V version uses 3V logic & 12 M Hz clock which means it's good when you want a lower-power & lower-voltage setup. Pro Trinket is programmable using the Arduino IDE as you already set up, & 95% of Arduino projects will work out of the box! For tons more details, check out the Introducing Pro Trinket tutorial or the Datasheet Here's some things you may have to consider when adapting Arduino sketches: Pins 2 & 7 are not available (they are exclusively for USB) The Pro Trinket 5V runs at 16 M Hz, this doesn't affect most projects. Only the most timing-specific libraries may be affected, check the documentation! The Neo Pixel Library works fine at 12 M Hz. The onboard power supply is a 5V regulator & it can provide 150m A output You cannot plug shields directly into the Pro Trinket There is no Serial-to-USB chip onboard. This is to keep the Pro Trinket small & inexpensive, you can use any FTDI cable to connect to the FTDI port for a Serial connection. The USB (Universal Serial Bus) connection is for uploading new code only. The bootloader on the Pro Trinket use 4KB of FLASH so the maximum sketch size is 28, 672 bytes. The bootloader does not affect RAM usage. Here's some handy specifications:ATmega 328P onboad chip in QFN package 16 M Hz clock rate, 28K FLASH available USB bootloader with a nice LED indicator looks just like a USBtiny ISP so you can program it with AVRdude and/or the Arduino IDE (with a few simple config modifications). Also has headers for an FTDI port for reprogramming Micro-USB jack for power and/or USB (Universal Serial Bus) uploading, you can put it in a box or tape it up & use any USB (Universal Serial Bus) cable for when you want to reprogram. On-board 5V power regulator with 150m A output capability & ultra-low dropout. Up to 16V input, reverse-polarity protection, thermal & current-limit protection. Power with either USB (Universal Serial Bus) or external output (such as a battery)
- it'll automatically switch over On-board green power LED & red pin 13 LEDReset button for entering the bootloader or restarting the program. Works with 99% of existing Arduino sketches (anything that doesn't use more than 28K, & doesn't require pins 2 & 7) Mounting holes! Yeah!



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• Easy set up: connect power source to Ground & IN, then the load from Ground to OUT• Uses a 3A P-FET to connect & disconnect IN pin to OUT pin• Works from 3V to 14V DC & up to 3A•
Includes: a 12mm tactile switch but you can solder in your own if needed•0.5u A quiescent current draw• On-board red LED lights up when active• Fourth KILL pin will turn off the FET when 1 or more volts is applied, can be used to allow your project to turn itself off! The Adafruit Push-button Power Switch is a tidy little design that lets you control a DC power source using an everyday tactile button. The breakout uses a latching analog circuit that is triggered by a push of the button. Press once to turn on, then press again to turn off. The circuit uses a 3A P-FET to connect & disconnect the IN pin to the OUT pin. Works great from 3V to 14VDC & up to 3A (although the FET gets a little toasty at continuous 3A draw) yet has only 0.5u A quiescent current draw. Using it is easy: connect the power source to Ground & IN, then the load from Ground to OUT. We include a 12mm tactile switch that works well but you can solder in your own switch as well. Press the button (or short the button pins) to alternate between on or off. A on-board red LED will light up when active so you know its working. There's a fourth KILL pin, which you can use to turn off the load and/or keep it off even if the button is pressed. When 1 or more volts is applied it will instantly turn off the FET. This allows your project to turn itself off. Comes with a assembled & tested bread-board friendly breakout board with four mounting holes, a 12mm tactile button, & some 0.1" male header you can solder to the board to plug it into a breadboard. The power switch is an elegant way to control power to your project, but there are some things to keep in mind: since there is a pass FET, this is only for 3-14V DC voltages. This is not a mechanical switch so there is no air-gap isolation. There is a 'body diode' in the pass FET so if the load has a voltage on it that is higher than the input voltage, current will flow back to the input. There is built-in debouncing but very bouncy switches can be annoying as they will turn on & off fast instead of latching.
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