• The rings are 'chainable'
- connect the output pin of one to the input pin of another• Use only one microcontroller pin to control
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• The rings are 'chainable'
- connect the output pin of one to the input pin of another• Use only one microcontroller pin to control
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• Arranged in a 5x 8 matrix, each pixel is individually addressable• Only one pin (Digital 6) is required to control all the LEDs• You can cut a trace & use nearly any other pin if you need some customization• Shields can be chained together for extra light blinking joy! • Please click here to see the Neo Pixel detailed guide Put on your sunglasses before putting this shield onto your 'duino
- 40 eye-blistering RGB LEDs adorn the Neo Pixel shield for a blast of configurable color. Arranged in a 5x 8 matrix, each pixel is individually addressable. Only one pin (Digital 6) is required to control all the LEDs. You can cut a trace & use nearly any other pin if you need some customization. To make it easy to start, the LEDs are powered from the 5v onboard Arduino supply. As long as you aren't lighting up all the pixels full power white that should be fine. You can also solder in the included terminal block (pro-tip: put it on the bottom of the board so it doesn't stick up) to attach an external 4-6VDC power supply. There's a polarity protection FET on there in case you wire the power backwards (we would never do that, it was, umm, a friend of ours, yeah that's it!) If, say, you need MORE blinky, you can chain these together. For the second shield, connect the DIN connection to the first shield's DOUT. Also connect a ground pin together & power with 5V. There you go! You can chain as many as you'd like although after 5 or more shields you may run low on RAM if you're using an UNO. We include both stacking headers & plain headers. Use whichever you prefer
- there isn't a lot of space left over for the 'duino pin breakouts so if you want to wire up some other outputs or sensors the stacking headers are good. For a slim sturdy look, solder on the plain headers.

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• Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED• Each one has ~18m A constant current drive so the colour will be very consistent even if the voltage varies• No external choke resistors are required making the design slim• The LEDs are 'chainable' by connecting the output of one stick into the input of another• Power the whole thing with 5VDC (4-7V works) & you're ready to rock• Please click here to see the Neo Pixel detailed guide Make your own little LED strip arrangement with this stick of Neo Pixel LEDs. We crammed 8 of the tiny 5050 (5mm x 5mm) smart RGB LEDs onto a PCB with mounting holes & a chainable design. Use only one microcontroller pin to control as many as you can chain together! Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED. Each one has ~18m A constant current drive so the colour will be very consistent even if the voltage varies, & no external choke resistors are required making the design slim. Power the whole thing with 5VDC (4-7V works) & you're ready to rock. The LEDs are 'chainable' by connecting the output of one stick into the input of another
- see the photo above. There is a single data line with a very timing-specific protocol. Since the protocol is very sensitive to timing, it requires a real-time microcontroller such as an AVR, Arduino, PIC, mbed, etc. It cannot be used with a Linux-based microcomputer or interpreted microcontroller such as the netduino or Basic Stamp.
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• The visible portion of the OLED measures 1.27"" diagonal• Contains 128x 96 RGB pixels, each one made from red, green & blue OLEDs• Each pixel can be set with 16-bits of resolution for a large range of colours• Because the display uses OLEDs, there is no backlight, & the contrast is very high (black is really black)• This design

Includes:: built-in logic level shifting so you can use it with 3-5VDC power & logic levels• The example code shows how to read a bitmap from the u SD card & display it all via SPI• Please click here to view the full Library We love our black & white monochrome displays but we also like to dabble with some colour now & then. Our 1.27" colour OLED displays are perfect when you need a small display with vivid, high-contrast 16-bit colour. The visible portion of the OLED measures 1.27" diagonal & contains 128x 96 RGB pixels, each one made from red, green & blue OLEDs. Each pixel can be set with 16-bits of resolution for a large range of colours. Because the display uses OLEDs, there is no backlight, & the contrast is very high (black is really black). We picked this display for its excellent colour, this is the nicest mini OLED we could find! This OLED uses the SSD1351 driver chip, which manages the display. You can talk to the driver chip using 4-wire write-only SPI (clock, data, chip select, data/command & an optional reset pin). Included on the fully assembled breakout is the OLED display & a small boost converter (required for providing 12V to the OLED) & a micro SD card holder. This design

Includes:: built-in logic level shifting so you can use it with 3-5VDC power & logic levels. Our example code shows how to read a bitmap from the u SD card & display it all via SPI.



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•60 rows of double 5-hole rows•4 power rails with positive/negative markings•6.2" x 2.0" (160mm x 55mm), 0.063" thick FR4•1.2mm / 0.047" drill holes•3 x 0.125" or 3.2mm mounting holes 2.95" apart This proto-board is the PCB you always wish you had, but never realized it! Adafruit took the basic layout of a quarter-sized breadboard (basically, a 'tiny' breadboard plus power rails) & turned that into a beautiful PCB. The top side has a white silkscreen, & the same markings you're familiar with, to make transferring components easy. The bottom has the 5-hole pad design that matches a classic breadboard, with 4 power bus lines on the sides, & no mask so you can easily cut traces when necessary. We used 1.2mm diameter drill holes so even parts with big leads will fit. All holes are thru-plated for strength
- these wont peel off with rework. The finish is a gold plate
- you won't get oxidation like with bare copper perf! There are also two mounting holes so you can attach the PCB to your project box.

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•30 rows of double 5-hole rows•4 power rails with positive/negative markings•3.2" x 2.0" (82mm x 55mm), 0.063" thick FR4•1.2mm / 0.047" drill holes•2 x 0.125" or 3.2mm mounting holes 1.9" apart This proto-board is the PCB you always wish you had, but never realized it! Adafruit took the basic layout of a quarter-sized breadboard (basically, a 'tiny' breadboard plus power rails) & turned that into a beautiful PCB. The top side has a white silkscreen, & the same markings you're familiar with, to make transferring components easy. The bottom has the 5-hole pad design that matches a classic breadboard, with 4 power bus lines on the sides, & no mask so you can easily cut traces when necessary.1.2mm diameter drill holes so even parts with big leads will fit. All holes are thru-plated for strength
- these wont peel off with rework. The finish is a gold plate
- you won't get oxidation like with bare copper perf! There are also two mounting holes so you can attach the PCB to your project box.

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•15 rows of double 5-hole rows•4 power rails with positive/negative markings•1.7" x 2.0" (44mm x 55mm), 0.063" thick FR4•1.2mm / 0.047" drill holes•2 x 0.125" or 3.2mm mounting holes 1.4" apart This proto-board is the PCB you always wish you had, but never realized it! Adafruit took the basic layout of a quarter-sized breadboard (basically, a 'tiny' breadboard plus power rails) & turned that into a beautiful PCB. The top side has a white silkscreen, & the same markings you're familiar with, to make transferring components easy. The bottom has the 5-hole pad design that matches a classic breadboard, with 4 power bus lines on the sides, & no mask so you can easily cut traces when necessary. We used 1.2mm diameter drill holes so even parts with big leads will fit. All holes are thru-plated for strength
- these wont peel off with rework. The finish is a gold plate
- you won't get oxidation like with bare copper perf! There are also two mounting holes so you can attach the PCB to your project box.

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•A large prototyping area mixed between breadboard style & perfboard• All GPIO/I2C/SPI & power pins are broken out to labelled 3.5mm screw terminals & 0.1"" header strips for easy prototyping• Suitable for semi-permanently wiring DIP chips, sensors, LEDs, etc• Extra 4-block 3.5mm screw terminal block for non-GPIO wiring•SOIC surface mount chip breakout area• Click here to view the detailed tutorial guide• To view the Pi Plate library please click here Now that you've finally got your hands on a Raspberry Pi®, you're probably itching to make some fun embedded computer projects with it. What you need is an add on prototyping Pi Plate from Adafruit, which can snap onto the Pi PCB (and is removable later if you wish) & gives you all sorts of prototyping goodness to make building on top of the Pi super easy. We added lots of basic but essential goodies. First up, there's a big prototyping area, half of which is 'breadboard' style & half of which is 'perfboard' style so you can wire up DIP chips, sensors, & the like. Along the edges of the proto area, all the GPIO/I2C/SPI & power pins are broken out to 0.1" stips so you can easily connect to them. On the edges of the prototyping area, all of the breakout pins are also connected to labeled 3.5mm screw-terminal blocks. This makes it easy to semi-permanently wire in sensors, LEDs, etc. There's also a 4-block terminal block broken out to 0.1" pads for general non-GPIO wiring. Finally, we had a little space remaining over the metal connectors so we put in an SOIC surface mount chip breakout area, for those chips that dont come in DIP format. Kit
Includes:: Custom PCB with silk screened pin labels 3.5mm screw terminal blocks Push header strips GPIO header socket It's dead simple to put together
- even a beginner can do it in twenty minutes!

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• Designed for Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 1 or Revision 2• Breaks out GPIO, I2C, SPI & power pins from the 26 pin header onto a solderless breadboard• Perfect for prototyping! This mini kit will make "cobbling together" prototypes with the Pi super easy. Now that you've finally got your hands on a Raspberry Pi®, you're probably itching to make some fun embedded computer projects with it. What you need is an add on prototyping Pi T-Cobbler from Adafruit, which can break out all those tasty power, GPIO, I2C & SPI pins from the 26 pin header onto a solderless breadboard. Designed for Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 1 or Revision 2. This Cobbler is in a fancy T-shape, which is not as compact, but is a little easier to read the labels. The Pi T-Cobbler mini kit comes with a 26 pin ribbon cable, a custom PCB, ribbon cable socket & header pins. A little soldering is required to put it together but its really easy, even a beginner can do it in 15 minutes so please click to read the tutorial. Once soldered together, the cable plugs between the Pi computer & the T-Cobbler breakout. The T-Cobbler can plug into any solderless breadboard (or even a prototyping board like the Perma Proto). The T-Cobbler PCB has all the pins labelled nicely so you can go forth & build circuits without keeping a pin-out printout at your desk. We think this will make it more fun to expand the Pi & build custom circuitry with it. The Adafruit Pi T-Cobbler is compatible with both versions 1 & 2 of the Raspberry Pi Computer
- for version 2 computers, note that the GPIO 21 has been replaced with GPIO 27 & that the I2C pins are now I2C port 1 instead of 0. All other pins are the same. Please note, this kit only contains a 26 pin ribbon cable, a custom PCB, ribbon cable socket & header pins. A Raspberry Pi, breadboard, breadboarding wires, cables, components, case, power supply, etc are not included! Raspberry Pi® is a trademark of the Raspberry Pi Foundation.
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