•FRAM allows for a lower power usage & a faster write performance• It's excellent for low-power or inconsistent-power datalogging• Data buffering where you want to stream data fast while also keeping the data when there's no power• Unlike Flash or EEPROM there's no pages to worry about• Each byte can be read/written 10, 000, 000, 000, 000 times so you don't have to worry too much about wear leveling FRAM, or Ferroelectric Ram, is similar to Dynamic random-access memory, only with a ferroelectric layer instead of a dielectric layer. This gives it stable handling (the bytes you write are non-volatile) with dynamic responsiveness (you can write them very fast!) With this I2C FRAM breakout board you can add some FRAM storage to your next DIY project. This particular FRAM chip has 256 Kbits (32 KBytes) of storage, interfaces using I2C, & can run at up to 1 M Hz I2C rates. Each byte can be read & written instantaneously (like SRAM) but will keep the memory for 95 years at room temperature. Adafruit chose the largest chip that has I2C & is also 5V compliant. You can use this chip with either 3V or 5V power & logic. It comes in a breadboard-friendly breakout & a spare stick of 0.1"" male header for soldering on. Anything else you need, check out the datasheet ...

• Measure both the DC current draw & have a handy analog output that is with respect to ground• It can handle high side current measuring, up to +60VDC! •
Includes: 5-pin header to attach easily to a breadboard• Uses the INA169 chip, click here for datasheet This breakout board will solve all your current-monitoring problems. Instead of struggling with a multimeter, you can just use the handy INA169 chip on this breakout to both measure both the DC current draw & have a handy analogue output that is with respect to ground. The analogue output makes this an ideal breakout for feedback-loop control. Most current-measuring devices such as our current panel meter are only good for low side measuring. That means that unless you want to get a battery involved, you have to stick the measurement resistor between the target ground & true ground. This can cause problems with circuits since electronics tend to not like it when the ground references change & move with varying current draw. This chip is much smarter
- it can handle high side current measuring, up to +60VDC! A precision amplifier measures the voltage across the 0.1 ohm, 1% sense resistor. The resistor is rated for 2W continuous so you can measure up to +5A continuous. The output is a current that is drawn through the on-board 10K resistor so that the output voltage is 1V per Amp. So for 2A draw, the output will be 2V. You can change out the load resistor to be larger or smaller by cutting the traces next to it & soldering a thru hole resistor over. If you solder in a 20K resistor you'll get 2V per Amp, with a 5K resistor, 0.5V per Amp. We include a 5-pin header (so you can easily attach this sensor to a breadboard) as well as a 3.5mm terminal plug so you can easily attach & detach your load. Usage is simple. Power the sensor with 2.7-60V, & connect V+ to the high side of your power supply, then connect V- to your grounded load. Then use a multimeter to measure the voltage output, that's it!

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• Plugs in into any USB (Universal Serial Bus) A port & shows up as a USB (Universal Serial Bus) keyboard
- no drivers required
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• Sense twisting & turning motions• Three full axes of sensing• The chip can be set to ±250, ±500, or ±2000 degree-per-second scale for a large range of sensitivity• Supports both I2C & SPI•3.3V max device, but onboard level shifting allows a 5V interface A gyroscope is a type of sensor that can sense twisting & turning motions. Often paired with an accelerometer, you can use these to do 3D motion capture & inertial measurement (that is
- you can tell how an object is moving!) As these sensors become more popular & easier to manufacture, the prices for them have dropped to the point where you can easily afford a triple-axis gyro! Only a decade ago, this space-tech sensor would have been hundreds of dollars. This breakout board is based around the latest gyro technology, the L3GD20 from STMicro. It's the upgrade to the L3G4200 (see this app note on what to look for if upgrading an existing design to the L3GD20
- (http://www.st.com/internet/analog/product/252443.jsp) with three full axes of sensing. The chip can be set to ±250, ±500, or ±2000 degree-per-second scale for a large range of sensitivity. There's also built in high & low pass sensing to make data processing easier. The chip supports both I2C & SPI so you can interface with any microcontroller easily. Since this chip is a 3.3V max device, but many of our customers want to use it with an Arduino, Adafruit soldered it to a breakout board with level shifting circuitry so you can use the I2C or SPI interface safely using a 5V interface device. They also placed a 3.3V regulator on there so you can power it from 5V. Since we expect people will want to attach it firmly to their project, the PCB comes with four 2.1mm mounting holes. Use 2-56 imperial or M2 screws screws. Getting started is easy
- simply connect SDA to your Arduino I2C data pin (On the UNO this is A4), SCL to I2C clock (Uno: A5), GND to ground, & Vin to 3 or 5VDC. Then install & run Adafruits easy to use Arduino library, which will print out the XYZ sensor data to the serial terminal, click here for the library. Their library also supports SPI on any 4 digital I/O pins, see the example for wiring.


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• Simply connect 3 to 6VDC to the + pin & ground to the
- pin, & the LED on the board will light up• You can make the LEDs fade
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• Simply connect 3 to 6VDC to the + pin & ground to the
- pin, & the LED on the board will light up• You can make the LEDs fade
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• Simply connect 3 to 6VDC to the + pin & ground to the
- pin, & the LED on the board will light up• You can make the LEDs fade
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• Comes assembled & tested with a free bonus JST cable!•5V input via PCB-style USB (Universal Serial Bus) connector• For charging single Lithium Ion/ Lithium Polymer 3.7/4.2v batteries (not for older 3.6/4.1v cells)•100m A charge current, adjustable to 500m A by soldering a jumper closed• Free 2-pin JST cable included!• For more details please click here for the datasheet Oh so adorable, this is the tiniest little lipo charger, so handy you can keep it any project box! Its also easy to use. Simply plug in the gold plated contacts into any USB (Universal Serial Bus) port & a 3.7V/4.2V lithium polymer or lithium ion rechargeable battery into the JST plug on the other end. There are two LEDs
- one red & one green. While charging, the red LED is lit. When the battery is fully charged & ready for use, the green LED turns on. Seriously, it could not get more easy. Charging is performed in three stages: first a preconditioning charge, then a constant-current fast charge & finally a constant-voltage trickle charge to keep the battery topped-up. The charge current is 100m A by default, so it will work with any size battery & USB (Universal Serial Bus) port. If you want you can easily change it over to 500m A mode by soldering closed the jumper on the back, for when you'll only be charging batteries with 500m Ah size or larger. For use with Adafruit Li Poly/ Li Ion batteries only! Other batteries may have different voltage, chemistry, polarity or pinout.
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• For use with Adafruit Li Poly/ Li Ion batteries only!• Comes assembled & tested with a free bonus JST cable!•5V input via Micro-B USB (Universal Serial Bus) connector• For charging single Lithium Ion/ Lithium Polymer 3.7/4.2v batteries (not for older 3.6/4.1v cells)•100m A charge current, adjustable to 500m A by soldering a jumper closed Oh so handy, this little lipo charger is so small & easy to use you can keep it on your desk or mount it easily into any project! Simply plug it via any Micro USB cable into a USB (Universal Serial Bus) port & a 3.7V/4.2V lithium polymer or lithium ion rechargeable battery into the JST plug on the other end. There are two LEDs
- one red & one green. While charging, the red LED is lit. When the battery is fully charged & ready for use, the green LED turns on. Seriously, it could not get more easy. Charging is performed in three stages: first a preconditioning charge, then a constant-current fast charge & finally a constant-voltage trickle charge to keep the battery topped-up. The charge current is 100m A by default, so it will work with any size battery & USB (Universal Serial Bus) port. If you want you can easily change it over to 500m A mode by soldering closed the jumper on the front, for when you'll only be charging batteries with 500m Ah size or larger. For use with Adafruit Li Poly/ Li Ion batteries only! Other batteries may have different voltage, chemistry, polarity or pinout.MCP73831 Datasheet
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• Onboard 5v->3v regulator provides 150m A for power-hungry cards•3v level shifting means you can use this with ease on either 3v or 5v systems• Uses a proper level shifting chip, not resistors: fewer problems, & faster read/write access• Use 3 or 4 digital pins to read & write 2 Gb+ of storage!• Activity LED lights up when the SD card is being read or written• Four 2 mounting holes• Push-push socket with card slightly over the edge of the PCB so its easy to insert & remove• Comes with 0.1" header (unattached) so you can get it on a breadboard or use wires
- your choice• Tested & assembled at the Adafruit factory• Works great with Arduino, with tons of example code & wiring diagrams Not just a simple breakout board, this micro SD adapter goes the extra mile
- designed for ease of use. To use with Arduino Connect:GND to ground 5V to 5VCLK to pin 13DO to pin 12DI to pin 11CS to pin 10 Then you can use the wonderful SDfat Lib which supports FAT & FAT32 SD cards. For details on getting started, check out Adafruits detailed tutorial which discusses micro SD cards, wiring & how to use this breakout board with an Arduino

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