Henri & Daniel Brunier of historic Chteauneuf property Vieux-Telegraphe (a classic cobblestone-strewn estate on the heat-steeped Hill of Crau) bought a farm from a pair of old men (who continued to live on there as part of the arangement) high in the hills behind Gigondas. Although much work on reviving the vineyards was needed they knew what they were doing for this is seriously good wine. The 2004 cheerily expresses the warm generosity of well-made Grenache.